Once your acclimatized....

[kcclimber3]

how long does it last? I am planning a trip to Russia this summer to climb Elbrus. Living in an elevation of 700', I intend on spending a few days climbing ~14,000' in Colorado the week before I leave. Will this aid in my acclimatizing if there is a 5-10 day interim before I actually get there to begin climbing?

Thanks!

[brian_m]

Nope. Not really... other than your minimal improvement in fitness from the hiking/climbing workouts. But, the acclimatization that you are hoping for (ie: increased # of red blood cells, improved oxygenation, etc...) takes longer to happen than it sounds like you will be in CO.

[crazy_t]

Acclimitization-wise it won't be a real help (i.e. like Brian says you will probably be closer to baseline by the time you leave Moscow or St. Petersburg for the Baksan valley) but fitness-wise and especially psychologically it should prove to be of benefit. While others in the group(?) will be working with the feelings of acclimatizing during the earlier days of the climb (i.e. the days working up to the Priut/Diesel hut) you will have recently (and hopefully successfully) gone through that and your recent experience exposure to that acclimatization will make those days more familiar and therefore easier going.

 

If you have any other Elbrus ?s feel free to pm me, I have spent a lot of time there and know the climb and area well. Good luck and have a blast!

[iluka]

No one has ever really studied this question in a very systematic manner. In general, it all depends on how long you spend up at altitude. If you just spend a few days in Colorado and then take 5-10 days transitting to Elbrus, it will have no lasting effect. If, however, someone spent 2 months up high in Colorado -- eg. above 10,000 feet -- then they would retain some of their acclimatization by the time they made it over to Elbrus.

 

 

[kcclimber3]

thanks guys for all your input; I do appreciate it.

Crazy T: I may pm you with additional questions as the trip gets closer...thanks in advance.

[chris]

The physiology has been studied to a degree. You loose acclimatization at the same rate you gain it (that varies from case to case).

The best advantage to climbing at altitude before a trip is to become aware of the rate your bodies adjusts, and to experience the physical demands. Its a lot like running your first marathon - the first time is always a little unsettling.

[iluka]

The best advantage to climbing at altitude before a trip is to become aware of the rate your bodies adjusts, and to experience the physical demands. Its a lot like running your first marathon - the first time is always a little unsettling.

 

This is true to some extent but the fact that you may do well on one trip does not guarantee that you won't get sick on another trip, particularly if you push a faster ascent rate the second time around. You are certainly right that it will help getting used to the different way one feels at altitude. This can really be helpful with the sense of breathlessness with exertion. A lot of people are surprised with how out of breath they feel going uphill with a pack but quickly realize this is normal and goes away rapidly when they take a break to rest.

[montypiton]

the studies I'm aware of suggest that maximum short-term acclimatization is achieved by most folks in one-to-two weeks. Little more is achieved unless you're prepared to spend a year or more at altitude. And, as chris states above, you de-acclimatize at about the same rate. For example, physicians in Leadville, Colorado have noticed for decades , a high incidence of pulmonary edema in their clientele returning from Disneyland vacations... Two weeks at sea level was sufficient for these mountain-bred folks to achieve short-term de-acclimatization, and they get sick when they fly home to their 10000'+ native place!