doubletall Posted June 28, 2001 Share Posted June 28, 2001 How well do plastic climbing boots work with AT binding on the descent. As long as there is adequate control, I would prefer to have the comfort and lighter weight of a climbing boot versus climbing in an AT boot. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted June 28, 2001 Share Posted June 28, 2001 They do work although there are a lot of factors that come into play that may discourage you from using them often. I have done it only a few times and mostly just to save time not for the "run". I used a pair of Asolo 101's (The old gray/orange AFS model) which although they are stiff, the uppers are short and not nearly stiff enough to obtain optimum control of your skis. The length and type of ski you use may help here considerably. The shorter and softer the better.(to an extent) I have Fischer Tour Alpin's 190 cm with Fritchi Automatic bindings. These things are pretty big and heavy, and I'm not, so controling them with a SOFT boot is challenging at best especially if the snow is the typical crud we frequently encounter. The other very real possibility is literaly breaking your plastic boot. These boots are not designed to withstand the torque used while skiing. I have seen the toe of a plastic mountaineering boot crack open completely during a crash. Which brings up one last point, if your bindings have a "din" settable release, your mountain boots may not release correctly possibly causing serious bodily injury! They do work, but they're not ideal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdietsch Posted June 28, 2001 Share Posted June 28, 2001 doubletall, I strongly agree with slaphappy. They work (I've done it never again)but you will suffer immensly on the descent. I agree with you that AT boots are in general heavier, but in my opinion it is all about staying in control. If you are really going to go for it, go to Barrabes.com and pick yourself up a pair of the Scarpa Titans for $133.55 + S&H and some duty. You will still be way ahead of Black Diamonds $299.00 retail. They won't climb like Nepal Tops but alot of good things have happened in AT boot designs in the last 5 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted June 28, 2001 Share Posted June 28, 2001 Bingo guys... I tried the plastic climbing boot thing and it slapped me hard. Kicked my ass. I have a pair of Scarpas now and am very happy with them. I do have a buddy who more or less grew up sking and he is quite good in his plastics (Koflachs). However even he admits it take some skill, strength and still isn't a party. So yes it can be done...but no it is not a party. Good luck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted June 28, 2001 Share Posted June 28, 2001 Good point Will! I am now primarily a snow boarder and have ridden in nothing but plastic boots for the past five seasons.(even at the areas) That is a combo that works well! Warmer dryer feet, better hiking, and way more control on the carves than lame ass snowboard boots! The only hinderance is if your into that "jib" crap. Climbing boots don't offer enough flex for that funk. That shits for posers anywho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted June 29, 2001 Share Posted June 29, 2001 Something you might try if you really want the performance of climbing boots is to use a snowboard instead of skis. You can get a split board that has the advantage of being able to wear like skis while skinning up a slope, then connect them and bomb the run. I actually rode a whole season in a pair of Invernos because me snowboard boots got swiped and I was broke. Again, not ideal but the short cuff and flexibility in climbing boots is not a big issue on a board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backcountrydog Posted July 2, 2001 Share Posted July 2, 2001 hey will what kind of bindings are you using on your board? i have a split board and want to switch to plastic boots and a wire binding. i was thinking of invernos and the voile wire binding. any experience with either?? or how the handling is with this setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted July 5, 2001 Share Posted July 5, 2001 I'm actually riding a regular board, so I don't get to skin-up, get to haul snowshoes instead. I've seen tons of folks in CO with the split boards though and it seems like the ticket. I'm riding regular Burton strap style bindings. My skills aren't good enough to be riding any crazy runs anyway (I grew up in Atlanta!). I'm usually glad to have the snowshoes in thick trees and deep powder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted July 5, 2001 Share Posted July 5, 2001 I have approached a lot of climbs on randonee skis, and it is not nearly as difficult as you think. First of all, Silvretta bindings work far better than others for accomadating climbing boots. Second, you should use really short skis. I would reccomend about 160 cm for an average size climber (I even use 140 cm kiddy skis). The smaller surface area might make you a bit slower on the approach, but will make you much, much faster and efficient on the ski out. The third thing to do is the most important: **My dad and I call these "knee cords." Find a nylon strap with a buckle that fits around your upper shin, right below your knee. Next you drill a hole in the tip of your ski (some already have one). Then you find some 5/6mm perlon and run it from the strap below your knee down to the tip of the ski. I have a special system so that I can adjust the strap and cord very quickly, but I'm sure you can figure that out. For the ski descent, break out your knee cords and crank 'em up tight. They simulate high-back ski boots, and really let you lean back. These help immensely, and allow me to ski any slope that I could with my normal ski gear. And also, leather climbing boots work just as well as plastic ones.** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted July 6, 2001 Share Posted July 6, 2001 BCDog why do you want to use wire bindings? In most circumstances, with plate bindings, you must run with the binding pointed so far forward you lose the stability achieved with a near 90 degree stance. If you turn them towards 90 degrees the heel and toe drag will screw yah.(If you have huge feet you will probably have toe drag anyhow) Although I do not use a split board, (I prefer snowshoes and a different board) I am familiar with the system, and would suggest using a standard strap binding, preferably an aluminum baseplate. Due to the stiff mountaineering boots, it is not difficult to achieve enough torque to brake a plastic baseplate. The strap bindings allow you to enjoy a freeride stance thus maintaining better control. Were you to use plate bindings, you would run into the same problem as skiing, too short of a boot with way too little forward lean. If you had another reason for the question, I apoligize for wasting your time. Colin I am impressed with your solution to the forward lean problem while skiing with mountain boots. Have you ever been concerned about damage to your knees in the event of a spill? I will likely try this the next time skis are warranted. Although I doubt I will buy shorter skis, which would help. Thanks again for sharing a fine idea. [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 07-05-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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