injury prevention

[eric8]

So there are lots of posts on what to do if you hurt a tendon. But I am wondering what people do to prevent injuries. One of the best climbers I know once told me "the key to getting strong is to train without getting hurt". While that seems pretty obvious it is easier said than done. So what do people do for there fingers.

Things I am aware of

-taking fish oil, msm, glucosime

-rest days

-warming up, stretching, warming down

 

what about

-using a hangboard both to get stronger but also as injury prevention

-ways to increase blood flow to your forearms and speed up recovery time. I read Andy Reather uses an e-stim device. Not that I'm going to buy one but there have to be other ways like running, squeezing balls, heating pads..

-others

[dbb]

...but there have to be other ways like running, squeezing balls, ...

 

I think you could get hurt pretty bad if you go around squeezing balls!

 

 

I think it just comes down to frequency and intensity of your workouts. Do more endurance/moderate climbing workouts than you do high end technical workouts. Listen to your body and respond when you need to back off. Staying in constant shape makes things a lot easier, as I'm sure you know..

[BillA]

It's all about periodization. For example, don't train hangboard or campusing for more than four or five weeks at a time and never together. I seemed to get injured a lot more (and was a lot weaker) before I had an actual training program. It seems to me that people that just boulder or climb routes in the gym at their maximum all the time tend to get injured a lot. Also, incorporate crossfit into your training program because it's awesome.

[Drederek]

A few things I've learned over the years, may work for others.

Lift weights, lo weight hi reps for endurance, improving vascularity and most importantly to keep the body in a better balance. Rock climbing tends to tweak your body by making the muscles in the front half of your bod stronger and pulling your skele out of its normal shape.

No crimping in the gym if theres any other way. Open grip will make you stronger. Avoid monos like the plague, theres no real reason to train for them except maybe climbing 13's or higher. Tape up when you feel a finger going bad instead of waiting till its really hurt. Leave the tape on till it falls off - you know you're going to keep training and if you have an active job you'll be reinjuring it all the time.

Carry enough weight so your ribs don't stick out. You'll catch fewer colds and have a reserve for the occasional hard day.

[miladugga]

What high rep weight exercises do you think are important? And I'm doing pretty good at keeping enough weight on.

[Drederek]

If I only hit the weights once in a week I'll work my back and shoulders. And you can't do too much work on your abs.

[layton]

Change your program and work the weakest link. You won't drop a grade if you stay off the crags and go running for a few weeks instead (for example). The key is not to start any new exercise program too hard. Adding only 10% a week it critical, although agonizing to those who want results too quickly. Light cardio BEFORE and stretching AFTER.

 

Erik, I can't see any reason whatsoever to use a fingerboard to prevent injury...only to cause one.

 

Fish oil and Bromelain are good natural ways to reduce inflammation. Chondroiten/Glucosame aren't but are good for rebuilding injured joints especially the knees. Not a prevention med though. A high quality multivitamin with high doses of vit C, E, D, Mg, Ca, and Zn are key for musculoskeletal support. Antioxidants to clean up the mess. Lots of water, protein, and a good dose of healthy fats. Plenty of whole grains and lots of vegetables and fruits.

 

Psychological stress are grossly overlooked as a culprit of injury. Get that extra quality sleep and take care of things that are bothering you. Ever notice how you rarely get injured in the middle of the summer when it's nice out and you're having fun...even if you are climbing your brains out?

 

(sorry for the misspellings but my monitor is cracked and I can only read so many words I've typed)

Edited February 23, 2007 by layton

[layton]

Also, good muscles to train to balance your climbing:

(I won't provide specific exercises)

 

Strengthen high reps/low weights:

Upper:

Deep neck flexors

Lower Traps

Serratus Anterior

Wrist extensors, supinators, uln/rad deviators

Abs (esp transverse ab)

Back Extensors

Lower:

Abductors

Glut Max,Hamstrings

Medial Quads

Tib Anterior, Peroneals

Intrinsic Foot Msls

Balance

 

Stretch:

Upper:

Upper Traps, Levator Scap, Suboccipitals, Scalanes, SCM, Rhomboids, Pecs, Lats, Rot Cuff (esp subscap), Pronators, wrist and elbow flexors, rhomboids (yes stretch and strengthen)

Lower:

Psoas

Piriformis

Hamstrings (yes stretch and strengthen)

Gastroc/Soleus

Adductors

 

For a dumb, basic, no brainer large torque producer(prime mover) exercise program that you can add that most likely aren't your weakest link, but want to maintain a high level of power and strength, here's the most basic get everything regime:

Prison Cell Workout:

Single Leg Squats (or Lunges)

Sit ups

Back ups

Pushups

Pull Ups

[eric8]

Cool, thanks for the replies. I guess I should have been more specific in that I'm interested in learning more things people do to avoid finger injuries. Some of you addressed that, thanks, mostly stuff I already knew like climb open handed, avoid monos, etc. Listening to your body is probably the biggest/hardest one to do. I have a pretty good background in wieght lifting so climbing it seems actually balanced out muscle structure. My probelm is that I seem to hurt a finger every fall in the gym. So I was trying to start something now that will help prevent injury next fall. I think the reason for this is that I climb outside and gain muscle on tendon friendly holds all summer and then start climbing in the gym on untendon friendly holds and my tendons can't take it. Thats why I was/am contemplating hangboarding once a week or every other week this summer to slowing build up finger strength to prevent injury.

 

I should definetly drink more water and start taking some sort of antioxidants.

 

Bill while crossfit isn't a bad thing help keep a base level of fitness for alpine, espically if you have limited time. Its does little for rock climbing, imo.