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Posted

Here's an old idea that I think still has validity. Many harnesses cost mucho bucks, and if you scrutinize the structure of the harness, padding notwithstanding, the strength of the harness depends on a buckle and one strap that weaves its way through the buckle, plus whatever strength the leg loops add (which must be significant). If the buckle goes, or if the single loop of webbing attached to the buckle fails, you've got a problem. But with the cost of such harnesses, I'll bet people don't replace them nearly as frequently as a sling, even though we modern climbers subject our harnesses to all kinds of abuse (falls, abrasion in chimneys, hours and hours of ultraviolet radiation).

My solution: for about five bucks, purchase enough 2-inch tubular webbing to go around your tummy twice and tie a water knot, with extra long tails (6 or 8 inches). Then purchase commercial leg loops (I've got some kind of Black Diamond jobbers) and hold it together with an over-sized locker. Then tie your chalk bag with a 1-inch tubular webbing strap, finished with an adjustable knot (bowline), and when you tie in with the rope, be sure to catch your 2-inch "swammi", your leg loops and your chalk-bag strap.

A cheap, strong system with redundancy. Cheap enough that the spine of this system (2-inch swammi) can be replaced annually. Stronger than anything sold (I'm no engineer, but this ain't rocket science). Also convenient for staying tied in at night, or for when you have to get out Mr. Jimmy to reward the party below you with a golden shower.

[This message has been edited by pope (edited 06-17-2001).]

Posted

I have a Mentor which has proved to be a decent harness, the Momentum does not look much different. I have always used BD harnesses (the Alpine Bod's and my first modern harness the "X Harness") and they work great. If you want something a bit more high-tech, check out Petzl's new Harnesses. The Corax is the one that looks the oddest and it has an double back buckle system, which to me does not seem fool proof, but hopefully it's been tested!

Good luck

Posted

Aidan,

The Momentum is a sport climbing harness, very little support. I tried one out and was very dissapointed. REI currently has the Blizzard on sale for 49.50, such a deal I was finally moved to replace my Chouinard harness.

Dan

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