diedre direct

[thelawgoddess]

what is the diedre direct start like? is it all slab or does the corner system start there?

[Dru]

slab, no pro. just go straight up from the tree. its steady going.

[fern]

I thought it started down where Snake starts and angles up and right toward the dihedral?? or is that something else (imaginary)

[thelawgoddess]

quote:

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Originally posted by fern:

I thought it started down where Snake starts and angles up and right toward the dihedral?? or is that something else (imaginary)

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whoa, dude; that would NOT be a very direct start! snake and diedre are quite far apart.

[Cpt.Caveman]

Even if you dont have pro just clip another climber. There will be cattle lines up there. Just bring draws

[Dru]

ooops. lets see. i musta been thinking of Straight Up. Diedre Direct has 1 whole bolt. You go up to the little tree (use 3rd class ramp on left) then traverse left to the end of the ledge the tree is on, then climb a 5.9 pitch to the base of the Diedre corner, bypassing about 6 parties on the way.

 

Do Snake instead.

 

[ 09-12-2002, 04:08 PM: Message edited by: Dru ]

[thelawgoddess]

it's not that crowded. if you get up early you don't have to deal with lineups.

 

i climbed diedre in april but i wasn't leading back then. i'm thinking of doing it again (except leading this time) because i might be taking someone who hasn't done any trad climbing whatsoever and i think they would enjoy it. just wondering about the direct start as an alternative (in case there ARE a bunch of people at the regular one).

[Cpt.Caveman]

Try out snake or calculus crack. They are pretty cool.

[Dru]

 

[ 09-12-2002, 04:33 PM: Message edited by: jon ]

[fern]

banana peel has many more bypass options than Diedre. Eg, do the direct 5.8 pitch between the faults, then the 10a thing to the left of the waves/corner pitch. Up the groove to the niche above the scraggy tree (belay as high as possible) Then step left out of the niche onto Sparrow and do a long (full 60, 1 bolt) 5.8 pitch to the trees 2 pitches from Broadway. Then just climb past people Euro style - clip their gear and step on their long-slung hexes dragging on the 25 degree slab

[Cpt.Caveman]

I'M A GAPER!

 

[ 09-12-2002, 04:32 PM: Message edited by: jon ]

[jon]

God dammit I'm going to kill the driver of the short bus for dropping you two idiots off here.

[fern]

[thelawgoddess]

i did snake last time i was in squish.

 

i've also done a troll's sonnet (which leaves me with no desire to do banana peel). and i did calculus crack in july.

 

i just remember diedre (as my first climb in squish and my first multi-pitch climb and only a few weeks since i'd really started climbing) got me really excited.

[Cpt.Caveman]

We should have known with your dual residence

[salbrecher]

Diedre=salbrechers first multi pitch, as of...TODAY!

[thelawgoddess]

quote:

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Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

We should have known with your dual residence

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yeah ... i so freakin' wish!!!

[Cpt.Caveman]

quote:

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Originally posted by salbrecher:

Diedre=salbrechers first multi pitch, as of...TODAY!

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Right on stefan.

 

Dont take the chopper rides to the base

[salbrecher]

[Cpt.Caveman]

and remember rock shoes cams and chalk are all aid too.

[thelawgoddess]

and in that case, better leave the rope and named helmets at home!

[Fence_Sitter]

i'll second calculus crack...stellar but easy climb with great scenery and view of garibaldi... two thumbs up

[thelawgoddess]

yeah, it's a fun climb, but i just did it less than 2 months ago. i haven't done diedre since april.

 

i also don't know if calculus crack would be "appropriate" for someone who's maybe never climbed a crack before. i want them to think of trad climbing as fun as much as it is challenging.

[Fence_Sitter]

what? thatclimb is the easiest 5.8 i have ever been on! and it is great fun oh well...to each his own...have a good trip

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by fern:

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At first I thought this was a picture "Steamer" would post!