wfinley Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 I got my wife some Vipers with the leashless attachments (Fangs) and yesterday she climbed with them for the first time. We climbed a long route (150m) of moderate grade II - III ice and she had a lot of trouble with the leashless attachments (she was still using leashes) - claiming that the plastic pieces slid around when she braced the ends against the ice. After we rapped off I bouldered around using her tools and thought they were really nice. Anyone else use the attachments? My feeling was that they would be better for steeper ice but if you're climbing moderate flows (and she is just starting to lead grade II ice) that the Fangs might be more of a hinderance. Anyone care to share their thoughts on them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfinley Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 Forgot to mention: the ice we climbed was really funky; it varied from rock hard (pick bouncing out) to dinner plates to rotten aerated ice. My thoughts were that her troubles had more to do with the ice and her swing style then the tools but (as I learned) one should never tell the wife she is "doing it wrong". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 I use mine without leashes and a strike attachment. I like them for two reasons and don't for one: 1. It protects my hands. On occasion I will climb without gloves and they protect my knuckles superbly. 2. My hands are just the right size for camming my middle-pinky fingers in the fang. This helps me pump out less quickly (though I still pump out quick) as I don't have to grip my actual ice tool. Feels funky with gloves on, but it's pretty secure. 3. I don't like them because they prevent usage of the clipping point on the spike of the tool. I had to drill through the fang to attach my umbelicals for those times when dropping a tool is bad news. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 If she looses the leashes, she will have less problems. Leashes= uncool American wanker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfinley Posted January 23, 2007 Author Share Posted January 23, 2007 If she looses the leashes, she will have less problems. Perhaps -- but you missed the chief complaint: "the plastic pieces slid around when she braced the ends against the ice." How will losing leashes help this or is go leashless just the standard spray answer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 "the plastic pieces slid around when she braced the ends against the ice." So, did the plastic pieces slide around on the tool, i.e. they were not tightly screwed onto the tool and/or didn't fit properly onto the tool. Or, was it that they made for a slick surface where the plastic contacted the ice causing the bottom of the whole tool to slide around. I think at least I'm a bit confused, maybe others too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfinley Posted January 23, 2007 Author Share Posted January 23, 2007 So, did the plastic pieces slide around on the tool, i.e. they were not tightly screwed onto the tool and/or didn't fit properly onto the tool. Or, was it that they made for a slick surface where the plastic contacted the ice causing the bottom of the whole tool to slide around. I think at least I'm a bit confused, maybe others too. The latter. When she was going over bulges she would sink the tool and then drop the handle so the base rested on the ice. Her previous tools had a rather aggressive point on the base that she could rest against the ice to help lever / balance her way over bulges or when hooking. When using the Vipers the Fangs were too slippery and slid left and right when weighted. However... I'm guessing this has never been a problem for you so perhaps it has more to do with style and the need to adjust the swing so you're not resting with the base against the ice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 Well, I do rest the fang on the ice, though when I sink my tools usually there's no side to side possible. They are pretty much set. Now when I'm hooking an icicle or on rock, I'm focusing on not moving from side to side anyway, since the placement is usually marginal, so it's not really an issue. It maybe a technique issue, though I wouldn't be the best person to be giving out technique advice. This has been my experience so far, though. :tup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 The latter. Ice tools are not meant to be 2 points of contact on the surface, only 1: the pick. Sounds like she needs to work on her technique and balance a little bit on the low-angled stuff. But, TBH, if she isnt climbing anything remotely steep, the pinky rests are a dubious addition anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aya Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 Do you mean fang or strike? I think you mean the former. I use mine without leashes and a strike attachment. I like them for two reasons and don't for one: 1. It protects my hands. On occasion I will climb without gloves and they protect my knuckles superbly. 2. My hands are just the right size for camming my middle-pinky fingers in the fang. This helps me pump out less quickly (though I still pump out quick) as I don't have to grip my actual ice tool. Feels funky with gloves on, but it's pretty secure. 3. I don't like them because they prevent usage of the clipping point on the spike of the tool. I had to drill through the fang to attach my umbelicals for those times when dropping a tool is bad news. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 I guess I implied that I had the fang on my tools, along with the strike attachment. Thanks for clearing it up though :tup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aya Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 Duh, W_C. I'm slow!!!!! I think they're (well, I have Grivel horns) great. Keep my knuckles from getting cold...yes, Alex, even on low-angle ice. Probably more a problem of her style than anything else. They'll just take some getting used to. If I can figure out how to get a pair onto some Aztars, I'll be all set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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