Dru Posted August 12, 2002 Posted August 12, 2002 Friday - waited for rush hour to end then drove to Squamish. Got my coffee cup back from Robin and Eva's house where it had been unintentionally visiting for a week. Robin and Eva wanted to do chores rather than climb... but they made me coffee. Went to the Mall. Ran into Rich in IGA. Rich was going to PetWall with Senja, Jordan, Brent, Jeremy, Diego etc. No one wanted to come and help me climb my project on Cheakamus!! Ate giant cinnamon bun. Surfed net in Valhalla Pure. Kris showed up and was KEEN!! Woo hoo. Drove up to Cheakamus (rehabs). Kris led Jugular Vein for warm up. We rapped off finding a 55m rope is too short meaning you have to down climb the boulder problem start OOPS!! Dru psyched up and led up his project finding it pretty easy after all the psyching. "Mad Science", 10b, 35m. 9 bolts plus #1, 3 TCU and #4 Camalot. This route is 5m left of "Idiot Savant". See Whistler Rock for details. kris then went sport climbing doing a bunch of 11's at Ripple Tower and Dru flailed up some 11 pulling on the draw when he couldnt do the 4 foot dyno off crimps at the 3rd bolt. After climbing Dru went to the Mountain woMan in Brittania and ate fish n chips . Gave some skater teens a lift to West Van. One of them said "Sick beats man" as he got out. Does that mean he liked the music?? SATURDAY: Don S. comes out and we head off for an obscure area of the Chehalis with unclimbed routes and stuff. Drive ~80kms of dusty logging road. Get psyched, see peak, pack up, about to leave when notice one tire is going flat. Can't release spare on Toyota cause chain crank is rusted shut OOPS!! Drive out 5kms toward logging camp but tire is fucked so decide to stop and fix it instead of driving thru water bars on wheel rim. Spend 3 hrs lying under Landcruiser with file, filing thru chain...eventually fix tire and decide to bail due to no spare now and 80km of bad road to drive. Drive out eating dust. Go in Chilliwack. SUNDAY: 7am leave chilliwack. 9AM start hiking at Yak. 9:30 AM start climbing. one party epicing on Yak Crack one party epicing on Reality Check, one party lost and bailing on the 3rd class start to Yak Crack... we got on the Crack went up to the Check and finished by that route... all the topos (Beckey McLane Knight Kearney) are bunk...here's a description the route is no harder than 5.9, not 10a...maybe it was when it was dirty but the lichen has worn off the footholds on the 'crux' slab now... 6 hrs up...party ahead of us was 2 ESL guys and shouted to each other in baby English all the way up route, we caught up to them on summit... 8 hrs car to car, wicked bluebird day, no epics, no booty, great route. pie and coffee in Hope to finish off weekend. [ 08-12-2002, 11:58 AM: Message edited by: Dru ] Quote
Greg_W Posted August 12, 2002 Posted August 12, 2002 If Dan Larson could climb hard, this sounds like a TR he would write. Poser. Greg W Quote
Dru Posted August 12, 2002 Author Posted August 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Greg W: If Dan Larson could climb hard, this sounds like a TR he would write. Poser. Greg W Except that we didnt climb Rainier Quote
Greg_W Posted August 12, 2002 Posted August 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: quote:Originally posted by Greg W: If Dan Larson could climb hard, this sounds like a TR he would write. Poser. Greg W Except that we didnt climb Rainier Didn't need Diamox for your ascent, either? Quote
erik Posted August 12, 2002 Posted August 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: quote:Originally posted by Greg W: If Dan Larson could climb hard, this sounds like a TR he would write. Poser. Greg W Except that we didnt climb Rainier neither did he Quote
Dru Posted August 12, 2002 Author Posted August 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by erik: quote:Originally posted by Dru: quote:Originally posted by Greg W: If Dan Larson could climb hard, this sounds like a TR he would write. Poser. Greg W Except that we didnt climb Rainier neither did heand we didnt smoke in any huts! Quote
allthumbs Posted August 12, 2002 Posted August 12, 2002 that's a Hoser TR if I've ever read 1 haha Quote
Dru Posted August 12, 2002 Author Posted August 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by trask: why don't you have that boil lanced? the only thing i got boiling is my crack kettle Quote
fern Posted August 12, 2002 Posted August 12, 2002 I'm surprised you didn't use a pin stack to break the spare tire chain Quote
Dru Posted August 12, 2002 Author Posted August 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by fern: I'm surprised you didn't use a pin stack to break the spare tire chain couldnt fit an angle through the hole in the wheel, just a file!! also more seriously, pin stacks only break locks, not single links of chain. also I think Don had like 3 knifeblades and a LA, not enough angles to stack! Quote
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