Mt James Turner N.Face

[layton]

Ok, I'm totally beta trolling here and seriously hogging the B.C. TR section. Sorry, but...

 

...Anyone done it? It looks sweet. The thing is that is looks like one of those climbs that needs pretty good conditions. However, while attempting Joffre Central Coulior (bailed due to emotional trauma due to fatality) in october in relatively warm temps after a big rain, the coulior was still in an looked good.

Should I assume James turner is similar, because I just read the FA was done in May! McLane doesn't really say what the season is for this baby, and I doubt many (if anyone) have repeated it. So if you've seen it, or done something n.facing at that latitude, I'd like your opinion.

It looks like an Awesome slog in, but I'd sure like to climb it after all that work.

Thanks again,

Mike.

[Dru]

Late July was a great time to do the north face of the Owls last year (see p. 216 Alpine Select)

[Cpt.Caveman]

Dem owls looked pretty cool!

 

Isnt this them on the right Dru? I think I also have images at home of James Turner. If anyone wants to look but not up to date..

 

[Dru]

Hoot hoot! That is them.

[jordop]

Although I have no direct experience on JT, do note that in Fairley the NW ridge is listed as poor rock, and I seem to remember that in the original report in the CAJ, Fabische said it was as well. Somehow in the intervening years, the rock has improved so that in McLane it is "good". Shit, who cares, it's the mountains!

[Cpt.Caveman]

quote:

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Originally posted by jordop:

Somehow in the intervening years, the rock has improved so that in McLane it is "good". Shit, who cares, it's the mountains!

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You crack me up Buy ya a beer next time we meet

[layton]

Captain, lets see those James Turner photos if you've got the time.

Thanks.

-Mike Layton

[Cpt.Caveman]

Yeah I'll email em later tonight or post em here if your email is not listed.

[Dru]

I don't believe you can actually see the N face route from wedge summit but you can from the wedge-weart col?

[Cpt.Caveman]

YOu could be right. I dont know where the routes go. I'll look anyways.

[Dru]

it looks like this from the summit of wedge

[Cpt.Caveman]

I think i have some at a different angle. we'll see. I 'll just email up over.

[Don_Serl]

i climbed saxifrage (NE of pemberton) on sunday the 7th. looking south to the N garibaldi park peaks, one cld see clearly that there was a LOT of snow on the N face of JT. see pg 208 of alpine select; the couloir appeared to be at least as wide as at the schrund or right of the seracs, for its full height. that may mean there is some snow on the rock on the summit tower, but u probably don't get both "full" snow and dry rock. snow on saxifrage was really well settled, not freezing overnite, about 4" of penetration on glaciers/lower angle slopes, about 6"-8" on 45d-50d SE face below summit. good stability. witnessed only one rock falling on N face. still 50% cornicing, with evidence of some recent collapses.

probably as good as you're ever going to get, is my guess.

cheers, don

[Black]

I was reading the board and saw your request for info. Rinhard Fabishe and I put up the route in 93, the route is best done in May or June as the gully is still frozen and the ice climbing is easy, I can't say for the rest of the wall but the rock on the headwall was solid when we put up the route as I lead most of the rock pitches.

Black

[layton]

Thanks for the info Mr. Black. You guys seem to crank out some interesting lines to keep us dreaming. I saw it from our little "traverse" and it looked "in." Priorities have changed, and my knowledge of other similiar climbs has broadened since I requested info (i.e. new routes), so I doubt I'll be getting after this one anytime soon. However, I hope someone has the vision to go out and do it, take some pictures, and make us all wish we were there.

Please continue to visit this spray factory, I'd like to hear your input on other routes and ideas too.

-Mike

[Dru]

hey john are you finished winslow wall yet?