archenemy Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 Revelstoke, Pemberton, Golden, Cranbrook, Nelson, Nanaimo, Campbell River, Mission... there are established 5.13s and local climbers that climb at that level. Most of whom no-one has ever heard of except other locals. Sounds a wee bit suspicious... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 nah 5.13 is dimadozen now. serious. i can name prolly twenty locals here who have 5.13 red points, maybe more, and then there's all i've never heard of. prolly 5 with 5.14? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 except in canada, everything is soft, except the pet wall! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 prolly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 Yeah 5.12 still seems pretty elite when you're plugging in gear...I've heard of a few 5.14 trad routes but few & far between. Â I've seen the "kids" who are climbing 13's and 14's walk up to 12+ crack and put it down in a couple goes. Even 12 crack climbing is fairly common. Â Last weekend I was all happy that I put down a 7c until my buddy ran up to tell me he just onsited a 7c. I'm still the most shitty climber in the group. Really though, grades don't matter that much. Just make sure your having fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 Yeah 5.12 still seems pretty elite when you're plugging in gear...I've heard of a few 5.14 trad routes but few & far between. Â I've seen the "kids" who are climbing 13's and 14's walk up to 12+ crack and put it down in a couple goes. Even 12 crack climbing is fairly common. Â Last weekend I was all happy that I put down a 7c until my buddy ran up to tell me he just onsited a 7c. I'm still the most shitty climber in the group. Really though, grades don't matter that much. Just make sure your having fun. Â If grades dont matter, then why are you spraying about them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 sorta related....anyone care to guess when we'll see 5.16? Â As soon as I get my butt off the couch and stop drinking so much beer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 5.14 crack  :cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 7, 2006 Author Share Posted December 7, 2006 Yeah 5.12 still seems pretty elite when you're plugging in gear...I've heard of a few 5.14 trad routes but few & far between. Â I've seen the "kids" who are climbing 13's and 14's walk up to 12+ crack and put it down in a couple goes. Even 12 crack climbing is fairly common. Â Last weekend I was all happy that I put down a 7c until my buddy ran up to tell me he just onsited a 7c. I'm still the most shitty climber in the group. Really though, grades don't matter that much. Just make sure your having fun. 12+ crack is essentially a face climb...plus, you are euro now, not US...that doesn't happen too often stateside, tim... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 Â "Essentially a face climb" eh Rudy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 7, 2006 Author Share Posted December 7, 2006 in general...in general...duh... Â offwidths are the exception that proves the rule... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 Â Face climbing huh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 7, 2006 Author Share Posted December 7, 2006 the portion of that route that is "5.12" is a tips section...which is face. Sitting on a fatty hand jam where he is, that is not the hard section... Â Â next... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 What route do you think that is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 12+ crack is essentially a face climb...plus, you are euro now, not US...that doesn't happen too often stateside, tim... Â Over hanging hands, S.platte CO, 13b/c: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 That's not real trad cause the crack was made with dynamite Chipped route is aid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 Yea, but all the "chipping" (huge drilled holes where they placed the dynamite) is on the top. As long as you don't jam in the drill holes up top, you are set Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 Chipped route is aid  I dissagree in this circumstance. Aid is using something other than hand and feet to accend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 I can pogostick up using my enormous willy but that is not aid. Aid is cheating. Chipping is cheating. therefore chipping is aid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 7, 2006 Author Share Posted December 7, 2006 enormous willy? HA! Word on the street is your unit equals a purple tcu... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 (edited) I can pogostick up using my enormous willy but that is not aid. Aid is cheating. Chipping is cheating. therefore chipping is aid. Â I agree chipping is cheating. but in that circumstance dynomite is not cheating. Most chipping is done with the knowledge you are making the route climbable. With the dynomite, i dont believe that was there intention. Edited December 7, 2006 by kevbone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 enormous willy? HA! Word on the street is your unit equals a purple tcu... Â You have the companies confused. Purple #4 Camalot maybe although green (#5) would be more accurate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 7, 2006 Author Share Posted December 7, 2006 no no i meant Metolius purple 00 tcu... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 The #00 is gray dumbass  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 7, 2006 Author Share Posted December 7, 2006 you would know, wouldn't you? :haha: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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