iain Posted August 29, 2002 Share Posted August 29, 2002 Has anyone here climbed the Eliot Headwall in the fall around here? Wondering what one could expect, any chance of rock pro, what to bring etc. Is this idea becoming more unreasonable as the glacier recedes over the years? Seems like there is noticeably less ice each and every year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketchfest Posted August 29, 2002 Share Posted August 29, 2002 Iain, When are you thinking about giving this a try? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 29, 2002 Author Share Posted August 29, 2002 Not sure yet, I don't even know if it is any shape to try. I might head up for some ice soon to take a look at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketchfest Posted August 29, 2002 Share Posted August 29, 2002 If your interested and need a second, I would be up for something of that nature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 29, 2002 Author Share Posted August 29, 2002 I'll let you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted August 30, 2002 Share Posted August 30, 2002 I've tried it a couple of times in the fall. We found the bergschrund to be challenging to surpass as we had to descend into it then climb the other side. Took considerably longer than we expected to, so we bailed rather than be pins in the bowling alley. You can bring rock pro but I'd imagine it to be more psychological than useful. Â Skiing on snowdome was worth the effort though. I think this is a route I'll save for the winter. Â good luck and let me know how conditions are when you get there. Seems the glacier is indeed receeding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Posted August 30, 2002 Share Posted August 30, 2002 I'd say that in order for E.H. to be shape in the fall, we need to have a couple storms deposit some snow. Then after a few days of cool, clear weather with melt/freeze, maybe the headwall will go. Just a thought, as I think that thing is dry as a bone right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted August 30, 2002 Share Posted August 30, 2002 I did it in Oct in the 80s. > it was after the first snow dusting and it was cold. There might be less ice now ,it was all the way ice then with a little rock at the finish. It was a great climb and I hope it can go for you. It may be a little warm right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 31, 2002 Author Share Posted August 31, 2002 Thanks for the input Billy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted September 1, 2002 Author Share Posted September 1, 2002 Thanks Wayne. I was just up there today to check things out and for a few laps on the icefall. The upper 900' or so of the Eliot HW is exposed rock and the slopes above the bergschrund are heavily runneled and brown. Looks like too much objective hazard for my tastes and will require a good amount of snow to make it acceptable for my consideration. I don't know how solid that rock is up there, but having a good amount of experience w/ Hood rock and looking at its color I would guess it would be a life-threatening experience. Looks like a winter climb, as some have mentioned. Â -Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haireball Posted September 3, 2002 Share Posted September 3, 2002 I climbed it in August of 1990, found the slightly overhung upper wall of the schrund to be more than I could handle (so I aided it), and got both ropes of my double-rope belay system chopped by spontaneous rockfall (completed the route anyway...) The rock-climbing is not too difficult, and it does protect adequately, but you definitely want to choose sheltered belays. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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