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Posted
5'6" with a neg. ape index. So compared to alot of hard climbers I'm a giant even with a poor reach. But then again I'm also 270 lbs. which limits me to mostly easy 5.14's.

well...i'm about 5'-5" with a spare tire and a dead even ape index...

 

sure, there are the anomalies as far as this route is harder cuz your short, but in general, there is almost always a way around a reach...

 

Ahhh, so you did understand. I guess I should retract some of my other statements then wink.gif I'd say though that the anomalies are alot more frequent the bigger the height difference is off of whatever they consider the norm for rating stuff. Yes, there is usually a way around a reach and it might even just be another variation at the same grade, but then it might not be! oohhh, now thats too hard for my brain to wrap around. hahaha

 

Too easy, just too easy to get everyone going.

 

-Evil TradClimbGuy

Posted

personally, i feel that bitching about a grade being different than what its given in a guide book or your buddy had it easier than you is weak...its an excuse and nothing else...you can cover this with your sarcasm and what not, but its weak...

 

for me its always boiled down to a fitness issue...if a route felt inordinately harder than what i'm expecting, than its time to stop stuffing donuts into my piehole...

Posted
Did you or did you not say you can climb 5.14 and that you weigh 270 lbs?

he also said that he needed to climb 5.12 to climb 5.11, so really his 5.14 is actually 5.15...

Posted

Yes, exactly. Full of Fat. Didn't you see the picture?

 

Just trying to keep it fun mixed with a bit of personal thought. Too bad too many people take it so serious they either attack whatever you wrote or can't take an obvious fun jab. I guess including "hahaha" after a jab isn't good enough to elude to trying to be funny and not a serious mean comment.

Posted
Did you or did you not say you can climb 5.14 and that you weigh 270 lbs?

he also said that he needed to climb 5.12 to climb 5.11, so really his 5.14 is actually 5.15...

 

no no no, I specifically stated that b/c I was short AND fat that climbing 5.14 obviously made it 5.15b/c but that I didn't want to just throw around numbers like that.

 

Didn't I mention that I'm actually the first person to climb a 5.15. It's a little known route called Godzilla at this secret climbing spot known as index. Watch out though, its a doozy. It's just a tips only crack for my fat mits and its expando, or maybe thats just cause I did it when I weighed 340.

Posted
I'd be willing to buy a beer to the first person who can prove there is a single person in the world who weighs 270 lb, regardless of height, who can climb 5.14.

 

I think that beer would go to whomever could talk Chris Sharma into gaining that weight.

Posted

I'm 6'3; my girlfriend is 5'3. We both climb at basically the same grade for sport, trad, bouldering, and gym climbing. If height was a major determination of climbing ability, wouldn't the top climbers all be 7-8 feet tall??

Posted
eviltradclimbguy said "its expando, or maybe thats just cause I did it when I weighed 340."

 

Awesome! It's all expando when I lever my fat ass on it.

 

I had to chuckle at that one myself. smile.gif I probably should have given it a 5.15b/cX rating at the time but cams came out that year and took the bite out of those expandos.

Posted

Part of this conversation is to discuss the physics of climbing. Bone, tendons, and muscle can only go so far in climbing. You are not going to send 14s (with the exception of eviltradclimbguy) if you weigh well over 200 pounds.

Posted

This is all crap! If you know how to climb then height does not matter at all!!! I am 5'8" and I guarantee that I can find a way to make the same reach that someone who is 6'0" can reach. Seriously, how often do you have to be 100% extended when you climb? And if you answered this by saying that you are 100% extended a lot then you need to learn some technique.

Posted
Damn. All this 5.14 talk, there must be some serious hard men in the house. Folks are talking out there ass on this thread.

 

More likely our Fat PIE Holes! Sometimes you just gotta liven it up a bit.

 

Oh, and did I mention my wife is a super midget at 2'4" but also climbs just as hard as me in trad,sport and bouldering smile.gif

Posted
More likely our Fat PIE Holes! Sometimes you just gotta liven it up a bit.

 

Oh, and did I mention my wife is a super midget at 2'4" but also climbs just as hard as me in trad,sport and bouldering smile.gif

 

Your sex life must be very interesting...

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