Review of new Oregon Guide books

[shapp]

So to stay back on the subject of the new guidebooks, I got both "Rock Climbing Oregon" A. Bolf and B. Ruef and Weekend Rock Oregon by H. Horton. In my intial 5 minute inspection of the Anthony lakes area In the Bolf and Ruef book, I can allready tell that the authors have a lot of F-ups. For example they do not have the peaks above Hoffer lakes named correctly. A simple look at the USGS 7.5 minute quad could have fixed all this. When refering to routes on Lees Peak, they actually describe routes and show pictures for The Lakes Lookout. They have The Lakes Lookout incorrectly labeled as "Lees Peak" and they have Angel peak correctly labeled on the map, but when they refer to routes on "angel peak" they are actually showing pictures and describing routes on Lees Peak. There realy isn't any routes on Angel Peak to begin with anyway. Also the names of some of the routes I don't believe are the ones that have been historically used. Also I notice at High valley they label the best route there, which is do or fly as 10c, that is crazy, no more than 5.9+. Anyway, lots of errors in only about 5 minutes of review.

 

 

On to Weekend Rock by Ron Horton. Let me preface that I have D. Whitelaws Weekend Rock Washington, which is supposed to be from the same series. Whitelaws book is well done as alwasy highlighting some of the best routes in washington. So with that said, Hortons book is not a list of some of the best 5.10 routes and under in Oregon. One example illustrates this with ease. While one would have a hard time summarizing a few of the best 5.10 and under routes at Smith, how does bunny face make it but Karate Crack does not make it into the book? How is it that Monkey Face is not even labeled on the area map, nor is any route included on Monkey Face, one of the most iconic formations in the Park? Whitelaw included some routes in his book for Washington that had some A1 or A0 part, so it reasons that Horton could have included 5.10 and under routes with a little easy aid, so how did the West Face Variation or Pioneer route not get in Hortons book. Granted it would be hard to only pick a few dozen routes for smith, but no Monkey Face, that is total rediculous.

 

Hardly any history in either book either.

Edited October 23, 2006 by shapp

[Cobra_Commander]

It's a damn shame karate crack is going to get so neglected. I hear some pigeons have already started roosting in there undisturbed cause no one knows about it anymore. And with good reason, it being tucked away out of view and everything.

[dan_forester]

can a pigeon nesting closure be far off?

[kevbone]

can a pigeon nesting closure be far off?

 

Thats funny dan!

[Cobra_Commander]

a lab retriever closure would pretty much shut down the park.

[shapp]

While the point is well taken Mr. Commander, coulde we reserve this thread for actual reviews of the books, and keep the good spray discussion in the other thread, I like the spray discussion but it is hard to wade through that to find info on the books. Thanks

[powderhound]

While the point is well taken Mr. Commander, coulde we reserve this thread for actual reviews of the books, and keep the good spray discussion in the other thread, I like the spray discussion but it is hard to wade through that to find info on the books. Thanks

 

okay settle down sparkey and keep your pants on

[billcoe]

 

okay settle down sparkey and keep your pants on

 

 

LMAO Hound!