Nelly Posted March 8, 2002 Share Posted March 8, 2002 You are absolutely correct - S. Side and Leutholds get a lot of attention on Hood. I'm just as guilty though - I climbed the Reid HW last Saturday. And yes, it was the easy access that attracted me, as I was solo and operating on limited time. However, if more time and a partner were available ................then who knows! Bravo on your Jefferson ascent! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-rock Posted March 8, 2002 Share Posted March 8, 2002 Hey Dick Pump - I saw your reply to the Broken Top post, are you always so fucking well spoken? All hail before the mighy DICK. Well, Dick, not speaking for anyone else on the site, but I topped out for the first time on Hood last weekend along with about 50 other people that day. It was fucking incredible. And well, while strong, smart, and capable, I do admit to lacking a lot of mountainerring experience. So I'm here on CC to learn. And I was up on Hood to learn. Shit, maybe next time with a bit more learnin' I'll make it up some other route that's more of a challenge, more of a 'wilderness' experience. Hell, it's what I've been looking for and doing on long backpacking trips for quite some time. Maybe, maybe with some pratice I can be more of a DICK that you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard_Pumpington Posted March 8, 2002 Author Share Posted March 8, 2002 I'm not saying that I haven't done/do this, but I don'tconcentrate my efforts here. Congrats on your Reid Headwallclimb Nelly, even though this is easy access, almostnobody climbs it and it does have some stout variations.It was refreshing to see someone post on anything otherthan the main 2. And yo, B-rock, no need to be so aggro.I was refering to the masses and you have to admit, thosetwo routes see way too much discussion. I'm not talkinglike I'm better than anyone else, just wondering whynobody tries anything else. [ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelly Posted March 8, 2002 Share Posted March 8, 2002 Dick - what do think the South East Spur on Mt.Washington would be like in winter? It's been rattling around my head for a number of years as a potentially good winter route. Just thinking and killing time in the office on Friday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard_Pumpington Posted March 8, 2002 Author Share Posted March 8, 2002 With good enough coverage, it could be sweet; the approach could be big though. I've been in there in the winterwhen the entire mountain was fully coated and took a lookat the Chimney of Space(which in the right conditions couldbe awesome). I think in full ice(rime or alpine), even theNorth Ridge would be fun. As far as the approach, which inthe winter is large, something on the West Face/West Ridge or North Ridge, would be your best bet. [ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-rock Posted March 8, 2002 Share Posted March 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Richard Pumpington:[QB] I'm not talkinglike I'm better than anyone else, just wondering whynobody tries anything else.[QB] Really? Because that's kind of how your post sounds. My point is there are many people at many levels on CC and so these are routes that get talked about. Tough ones get talked about too. Hey, great job on Jefferson. Broken Top too. Just trying to be a DICK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imorris Posted March 8, 2002 Share Posted March 8, 2002 We were eyeing the S.E. couloir on TFJ. Has anyone here climbed this, and what is it like. (Obviously we want cold conditions and good coverage). And what are you climbing these days R.P.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelly Posted March 8, 2002 Share Posted March 8, 2002 Thanks Dick, yep the North Ridge is a good winter route. We did in fairly good conditions, although it still had my FULL attention - rime doesn't protect well! I've skied into the general area of the East Face but I didn't check out the complete route over to the SE Spur. Avy conditions have to spot on before I venture onto those slopes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imorris Posted March 8, 2002 Share Posted March 8, 2002 er, besides Jeff I guess. How was that climb, and how much time did you give yourselves for the climb? I've been wanting to do Jefferson in winter, perhaps via milk creek. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard_Pumpington Posted March 8, 2002 Author Share Posted March 8, 2002 Nelly,Which way did you approach the East Face in the winter?How long was the approach? Good job on the North Ridge inwinter! Rime can be a bit hairy at times.TFJ is the only one I haven't been into in the winter; Yet!for Jeff, we gave ourselves3 days for the climb, as we had to start our approachfrom Highway 22(that sucked!). First day made it to thetop of the approach gully for Milk Creek/West Rib, secondday climbed the rib(the rime on the pinnacle was a bitunconsolidated;not enough melt freeze yet)rapped off a bollardand descended to camp for the night and the third daywent out. I think the West Rib is a safer climb, becauseyou ar on a rib(low avi/rock/icefall danger) and theroute ends at the best place to climb the summit pinnacle(West Gully). A grueling, but very satisfying climb.Check Billy's post for another climb I did. [ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ] [ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelly Posted March 8, 2002 Share Posted March 8, 2002 We climbed the N.Ridge in the late 80's so cut me some slack on the details: approached via the sno-park by Hoodoo (sp?), just off the Hwy. We followed snomoble tracks to the west side of the lake (can't recall the name of the lake at the moment) and essentially traveled parallel to and higher than the PCT, always heading toward the North Ridge. After climbing the north ridge, we descended to treeline on the North Ridge and dropped onto the East Side of the mountain. We skied across the east face as far as the buttress that splits the Face (about 1/2 way to the SE Spur). Hope that makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard_Pumpington Posted March 8, 2002 Author Share Posted March 8, 2002 Yeah, that makes sense. That's the approach we used as well. The lake is called Big Lake, by the way. The reason I asked, is that any approach other than this one, would be huge! I thought you may have used a different approach than that. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelly Posted March 8, 2002 Share Posted March 8, 2002 By the way - we never saw a soul! Surprised Mt Washington doesn't more winter action. In fact, rarely does anyone climb the east face routes, winter or summer - go figure, they're not that tough and the rock is better than one would expect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted March 8, 2002 Share Posted March 8, 2002 Yo Pump, I get tired of seeing posts about these routes too but I remember my intrepidation about climbing up there my first time. I would have been on here asking about it if there was a website like this out there. The fact is that Hood is a really cool looking mountain and when you look at it from Portland you think, man I want to climb that. And so you go up the easiest route with the least difficulties and then you remember how fun that was and you hear about Leuty's. The next thing ya know your posting to try to find out the beta on these climbs (usually which we answer with -don't be stupid and you'll be ok). So there you have it. Many people don't know about Jefferson or Washington because they aren't as visible or close to a metro like Portland. Frankly, if they want to keep herding up the south side that's ok with me. It'll keep them from showering rocks down on me on other routes on Hood and will allow for experiences like being the only people going a classic route like the jeff park glacier route. This is my oppinion. -Carpe Diem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picketeer Posted March 9, 2002 Share Posted March 9, 2002 Standard route up Mt. Washington, winter stylee! Notice the lovely holds.Winter ascents of Mt. Washington are such a romp! No protection, imaginary belays, and all that provided Storm King doesn't send you scurrying for your tent (or rig) before you make it onto the mountain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imorris Posted March 9, 2002 Share Posted March 9, 2002 Not sure what your experiences have been, but I'd be careful on the west side Mt. Washington routes if there are climbers above. May be the east side routes are the same. When there are parties on the N. Ridge, or other routes above, it can obviously be quite dangerous below. Rockfall seems to channel over you when climbing the west face on Mt. Washington. Best to do it on weekdays, in my opinion, but that's just in summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imorris Posted March 9, 2002 Share Posted March 9, 2002 Nice picture. I bet that rime ice provides better holds than the rock on the upcoming pitch in that picture. I assume that's approaching the NE gully to the rappel block. Choss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard_Pumpington Posted March 9, 2002 Author Share Posted March 9, 2002 Nice pic, Picketeer! Now that's what I'm talking about; I bet that one stands out in your mind. Looks very similar to what I found on Jefferson. Party on! [ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraigA Posted March 9, 2002 Share Posted March 9, 2002 I would assume it's because the South Side IS the easiest, and therefore, the most often climbed. Leuthold is a step up from that and said to be a very beautiful route, so that along with it still being "convenient" would account for it's popularity. I can't say for Leuthold I haven't climbed it yet, but it is on my calendar for next week. But the South Side was my first route on Hood because I felt I could do it safely (I had no experience or training). Kind of a walk-before-you-run type of thing. Besides, if someone is excited after climbing Hood for the first time, then I for one say "tell us all about it and congratulations!!" I still remember how proud I felt after doing it. People climb for different reasons and while the "dog routes" have little to no interest for some, they are all that are possible for others (because of skill level, time, or even desire).Pesonally I am looking forward to the more advanced and challenging routes, but my climbing partners do not share my desire. So that led me here where I have met several very nice people, and look forward to climbing with a few others. Climb safe and have fun at whatever you aspire to. Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imorris Posted March 9, 2002 Share Posted March 9, 2002 I still head up the S. Side occasionally though I have been regularly climbing harder routes on the mountain. I like the fact that I can decide on the commute home over Terwilliger Blvd, to go run up there by myself, ski down, and be back by tmr a.m, even go to work, even when considerable avalanche conditions close most other routes. That's cool, and one of the reasons I like PDX. Fun to be asked what you did last night at work the next day, and say "well I just skied 5000 hard-earned vertical this morning...what did you do?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard_Pumpington Posted March 9, 2002 Author Share Posted March 9, 2002 Why is it that this is all anyone wants to talk about?There are other good routes on Hood that seldomly seeascents(Cathedral Ridge,North Face,Sandy Headwall,etc..).More importantly there are other mountains in the statethat are fun and challenging to climb, with some worthyroutes on them. I'm sure it's the short and easy approachfrom Timberline Lodge that attracts ALMOST everyone, butthese people are missing out on a more wilderness experiencein some amazing settings. On Feb.12th I made an ascent ofthe West Rib of Mt.Jefferson, that was more satisfyingthan any of the 10 routes I've climbed on Hood. You knowwhat? My partner and I were the only people on the entiremountain! Anybody read Billy's post on the North Buttress of Broken Top? Anyone even know where that's at, or whatit's about? My point being that there's a lot of greatclimbing to be had, outside of the standard Mt.Hood traderoutes. These are some great winter options: Mt.Theilsen,Mt.Washington,Broken Top and Three Fingered Jack all have great winter routes on them, as well as the Three Sistersand Mt.Jefferson. Most climbing isn't afforded a year round,high access point, like Timberline Lodge, but then again,climbing isn't supposed to be easy. [ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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