Rating on Broken Top's 50' summit fin?

[TimB]

I climbed the NW ridge of Broken Top a few weeks ago and am wondering if anyone knows what the top 50' pitch is rated? Instead of scrambling to the top after climbing the 10' crack, my wife and I climbed straight up a narrow, exposed fin to the summit.

Tim

 

[Cpt.Caveman]

How about this TimB? What do you think it is rated?

[mattp]

I used to take beginners up there on a regular basis and we used to call it 5.4 (about 1988). However, in some years there were large loose blocks that had to be removed at the start of the season. If you get a rating from someone, check the dating.

[imorris]

You took a right instead of a left at the rim? I'm trying to figure out where you were. I'd say the paths to the summit are all 5.1. It's no harder than Mt. Wash. N. Ridge, and in fact is quite a bit easier in my opinion. I have not been over to the southern summit (which looks quite interesting). Apparently there are a few ice climbs to be had in those gullies.

-Iain

[mattp]

I believe he is talking about taking neiter a right or a left, but climbing directly up the summit tower itself - a short (50 foot or so) vertical pitch. The more common approaches, traverssing either left accross the top of a snow patch or right accross a rock bench, are barely fifth class or perhaps not fifth class at all.

[TimB]

Yes, I am talking about heading straight up from the crack, not heading right or left. The right hand route along a lose rock ramp looks to be the standard way and just a scramble.

I'm not good at estimating grades--that's why I posted the question here. If the pitch was at a local crag instead of being so exposed at the top of Broken Top, I'd say it was low 5th class (5.3 - 5.5). Are route grades adjusted for exposure, lose rock, etc?

TimB

 

[Cpt.Caveman]

TimB you see the beauty is that you rate it now and everyone can criticize you for a sandbag or inflated rating I prefer to sandbag a little myself. 5.4 it is!? Is it about as tough as a route like Midway?

[imorris]

I suppose it's much like applying a grade to the rock on Early Morning Couloir on North Sister, or for that matter, stacking a bunch of fine china and assigning a grade to it. If the holds come off in your hand and everything above comes down on you, it's easy to overgrade the actual moves.

-Iain

[mattp]

True, Iain, but the rock on that final fin below the summit of Broken Top is like pristine granite compared to the choss above the Early Morning Couloir.

[Dru]

When one of those good holds comes off in your hand, put it in your pocket and save it - you might find you need it later on.

[Cpt.Caveman]

quote:

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Originally posted by Dru:

When one of those good holds comes off in your hand, put it in your pocket and save it - you might find you need it later on.

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Yeah take it down to Deception Crags and some of the route bolters might want to glue it on to one of the routes there!

[RStewbone]

Dru it is quite illegal to remove rocks from a mountain in this country however if you secure the proper permits you can legally remove rock from nat. forst land. That 's why whenever I break a hold I look around quickly and then put it in my pocket.