powderhound Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 (edited) Sorry this post is a little late. The route was done on labor day weekend with Trevor Bowman and Neil Kaufman in the Beartooths, up rock creek outside of Red Lodge. The Pensive Spire on had one other route on it that followed the left ridge on the picture below. The route was a good rock and went farily well. We hiked in on saturday and set up camp and took our spoting scopes for a little hike and went out to pick a line and this is what we cam up with. The route we choose faced north west and did not get sun until noon so the first few hours were pretty cold to say the least. The pitchs were long we had two 70 meter ropes and five of the pitchs were a full 70 meters. Here is how the pitchs went: Pitch 1: 5.6R 120 feet scramble across scree Pitch 2: 5.4R 140 feet up to the firt step Pitch 3: 5.9 65 meters up the thin crack Pitch 4: 5.8 70 meters up around the corner and back on to the step Pitch 5: 5.9 70 meters up the around corner up the inside corner Pitch 6: 5.8 55 meters up the corner system Pitch 7: 5.10 70 meters through the roofs and chimney Pitch 8: 5.9 70 meters up the corner and scramble to end of rope. Scramble to the top Descent: Hike over to whitetail pass and take the easy switch backs back to camp. Gear Notes: Doubles of everything up to #2 and one #3, many small cams and nuts. Topo: Some other photots from trip: There was a crazy layer of smoke one night and it reflected the light weird and gave us these crazy colors on the range behind us. Edited September 26, 2006 by powderhound Quote
John Frieh Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 Nice work dude! Looks like a fine line and lots of potential in there Quote
Argus Posted September 26, 2006 Posted September 26, 2006 How was the rock on that side of the buttress? I climbed the left side and it was downright terrifying at times. I have six nuts on my rack from people's rappel stations. I should have taken that as a clue. It also seemed considerably harder than what Brunckhorst has in his guidebook. Quote
powderhound Posted September 26, 2006 Author Posted September 26, 2006 The rock on on the lower two pitchs was supect, but when we actually got into the route the rock turned out ot be solid. Not to sya there wasn't lose sections but for a alpine FA there was realativley little. You should go do it it was a great climb and the setting is impressive. Quote
NYC007 Posted September 30, 2006 Posted September 30, 2006 looks fun. may have to head over your way soon Quote
Blake Posted October 2, 2006 Posted October 2, 2006 what kind of rock is that? The chimney part looks really fun and solid. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.