Bilgeri rescue technique

[Bigtree]

Can anyone with some experience with rigging/using the Bilgeri crevasse rescue technique describe it to me or post a diagram depicting the basic elements? I can't seem to find anything on the web. I heard some vet climbers mention it but can seem to find anything decent on the web.

 

Mucho gracias.

[Jens]

Check some of the early editions of Freedom of the Hills.

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It might be novel to try with a few others some time.

[G-spotter]

You drop two loops of rope down to the climber in the crevasse. With a foot loop tied in each one.

 

The climber stands in the foot loops.

 

Now the climber puts all his weight on the right foot and the belayer up above takes about a foot of slack in on the left rope and then locks off (or you can use a prusik on the rope at the belay)

 

Then the climber switches feet and weights the left rope and you take in on the right rope.

 

Repeat until out of crevasse.

 

Works good with a Reverso or something where one belayer can take in on one rope at a time and leave the other one locked off.

 

Isn't it "Bilgiri"?

[Mos_Chillin]

Close, Dru:

 

web page

[mattp]

Dru-

 

Have you actually tried this? I'd be interested to hear from someone who has actually tried this method - either in practice or in a real rescue situation.

 

It is easy to picture a slight advantage over having the "victim" fumble with prussiks down in the hole, but my own experience with jumars or prussiks usually involves one of them attaching to my waist rather than two feet, and I bet that is more often then not necessary even if the guys "up top" are hangling the rope management.

 

As a side note, perhaps only slightly off-topic, I'd say that with a party of four or more it is probably easier to just haul the poor guy out of the crevasse.

[G-spotter]

Ive only practiced Bilgiri in the Squamish Pavilion on a rainy day. It seemed like it was faster than C+Z clusterfucks in a conscious victim situation.