[TR] Temple Ridge- Various Things 9/3/2006

[AlpineMonkey]

Climb: Temple Ridge-Various Things

 

Date of Climb: 9/3/2006

 

Trip Report:

 

The Meteor

 

(Crack goes up the middle of the left overhanging face)

 

At first as if in some weird trance we both sat silently staring at the beast, but then laughter broke out. With a 5.12 ratting I knew I was setting myself into position for a good ass whooping and the feeling of fear was most certainly present. But all aside, it was (and still is) the most beautiful crack I have ever seen. I couldn’t wait to throw my body into it and discover if I was tough enough to make a “send.”

 

 

One fall and several takes later I found myself bloodied and beat, but standing on the summit. Though I didn’t do it clean, I made sure to work every move free. An amazing pitch it was. On the summit we found a scary rusty quarter inch death bolt for our descent. I wouldn’t trust that thing to hold my closet door on, we instead opted to rap off two knife blade pitons. Judging by how beat up and tired I was I think its really a 5.12+, but that must be decided by a real .12 climber, not me.

 

 

Comet Spire

 

One rap off the summit of the meteor led to easy ground. We scrambled to the summit of The Comet and down climbed its west ridge.

 

 

Razorback Spire

 

Having wanted to climb Razorback Spire last year, I was excited to give this point of prominence a try. Ryan wiggled his way up a difficult 5.11 chimney and we quickly found ourselves skirting the “razorback” to touch its summit.

 

 

The Eagleheads

(aka The Owl - I dont know how Beckey confused what looks like an owl with eagles?)

 

Having only one or two recorded routes, we wanted to do something different. Our line weaved two pitches up the middle of the N. face before reaching a prominent dihedral. Three pitches, 5.8, 5.8, 5.10.

 

 

Black Pyramid

 

We tried to work a N. Facing line but had to bail two pitches up when we got stuck. I was a little disapointed, but theres always another time.

 

Gear Notes:

Double set of cams, more big gear would have been nice. Wish we had two 4's, 5's, 6's and tube chalks or something)

 

Approach Notes:

Nada Lake

[suckbm]

that crack on the meteor looks sick

[Alpinfox]

Nice!

 

That Meteor crack does indeed look super duper. Hand-sized?

 

Thanks.

[olyclimber]

wow...awesome climbing craig!

[AlpineMonkey]

It starts off handsized and then turns into a fatty overhanging offwidth.

[cappellini]

5.12? try 11-

[cappellini]

there are formations between the owl and the blk pyr which resemble eagleheads. they are closer to blk pyr and fit the beckey description well. north face owl has been done

[bwrts]

and both summits have been mounted.

nice shots of the "crack."

[Kat_Roslyn]

Bwrts, they Mounted it like a migty steed.

That crack is so cool & intimidating looking up close, though not much else has, the look of that thing has stuck in my head, I thought the brown instruction manual was lying when read that it was climbed. Good job Craig & Ryan, that's rad you guys did that.