Alpine Rope Recommendation

[spotly]

I'm looking to get a light weight single for alpine use only. Weight is a concern of course, but I don't want some POS that'll fall apart after just a few climbs either. Any recommendations? Thanks

[colt45]

Any 60m double rope should do the trick (~8.5mm). I like Mammut ropes but specific brands come down to personal preference.

[spotly]

I don't think I'm up for taking a fall on any ole 8.5 actually Thanks though. I'm looking for recommendations for a single. I've read various reports on some of the newer ultralight singles but was wondering if anyone here had a preference....in a single.

[colt45]

If you plan on doing some falling, I like my Mammut Infinity. Reasonably light at 58 g/m, and reasonably burly (I have probably taken ~100 falls on mine and it's still going strong).

 

For easier alpine routes where falls are unlikely, I think a double rope is the way to go because of the huge reduction in weight (double ropes are rated to hold falls individually, you can always replace it after a single fall, and for alpine routes it's often easier to double a rope over for simul-climbing anyway, in which case you would be using it in double-rope mode).

[spotly]

The Infinity was my first choice but after doing a bit of reading here and there and talking to a few more people, I opted to go with twins. Ok - I'm fickled! But the Mummut Twilight 7.5mm looks real nice on paper (weight, falls, blah blah). Seems like a good choice?! For the money, I can only hope at this point since I just pressed the "Process Order" button at JustRopes. I don't get the benefits you mentioned regarding the doubles but they're a fraction lighter and being the slog-wuss I am...Oh no, I've got twins! LOL. Thanks for the advice and the PMs.

[colt45]

I don't get the benefits you mentioned regarding the doubles but they're a fraction lighter

You're right, it primarily comes down to reduced weight. For a 60m rope, one gram per meter increases the weight by 60 grams = 2 ounces = 1/8 of a pound.

 

weights from Mammut's website:

single rope (infinity): 58 g/m

double rope (Phoenix): 41 g/m

twin rope (Twilight): 38 g/m

 

So bringing a double instead of a "lightweight" single will make your pack 34 ounces lighter...that's more than two pounds. For easy ridge routes (e.g. stuart W ridge) I have even used a 30m twin (glacier) rope doubled over for simuling 15m apart, which was just as safe as using a 60m single rope (we fixed the belay for anything slightly difficult), but more than 5 pounds lighter! Whether reducing pack weight by several pounds is significant comes down to personal preference, but I'm a wimp when it comes to carrying a heavy pack.

[spotly]

Ok, definitely fickled but...I cancelled my order for the twins and picked up the Mammut Serenity instead. I've heard it won't stand up to alot of abuse but for what I'm doing, it should be fine...I hope.

[jmace]

so now youve got a single alpine rope, which is fairly pointless since you most often need two, its 2 pounds heavier, takes 2/3 less falls and cost the same as two ropes..?

 

I love my twins

[colt45]

Probably comes down to the type of routes you climb; it seems to me that many of the "classic" alpine routes in Washington are easily done with one rope.

[jmace]

what happens if you need to bail..emergency, weather..? raps are all 30 m?

[Alpinfox]

There is a time and place for a single. There is a time and place for doubles. To say that doubles are always better than a single is silly in my opinion.

 

Depends on the route, the conditions, the climbers, etc.

 

I like the simplicity of a single rope and it's lighter than two twins, but yes, bailing with a set of twins would be easier than with a single.

 

Edit: On the other hand, YEAH TWINS!!! <-- might be considered NSFW

Edited September 1, 2006 by Alpinfox

[jmace]

agreed, but with twins or halfs you can always just use a single..cant the other way around..I suppose if you have the loot buy all three if you can.

 

he did say

alpine use only

[spotly]

All great points and it was a difficult decision. I like the twins idea (probably prefer the doubles better I'd guess) but then I got to thinking that it might be better to climb with some first to see what kind of problems I'd run into (coiling two instead of one, using my ATC Guide, blah, blah) and if I was willing to deal with that to get the benefits. Having doubles or twins would be nice for bailing and maybe when I start getting up (or trying to) some more difficult routes, I'll see more benefit to getting a set. Thanks for all of the great advice!

[chris]

I bought a 70m Beal Joker this summer. Its awesome. Weighs as much as a 60m, passes the tests for all three standards, which means I can use it as a lightweight single on the easy stuff, a double on the loose stuff, and a twin on the hard stuff...

[dbconlin]

...plus you can carry a lightweight static cord for rapping paired to your lightweight single enabling raps just as long as with doubles, but lighter (maybe) and less hassle...

[goldenchild]

may as well post my question on this thread since I was gonna ask something similar. Was looking for a set of half ropes. Am I being stupid in not being able to decide between getting a 8.5mm or a 8 mm diameter rope? Does 0.5mm really make that much of a difference in terms of safety?

Was considering the Mammut Phoenix or the Genesis

http://www.mammut.ch/mammut/katalog.asp?view=detail&did=9&dart=4&tid=4509&sid=2

 

http://www.mammut.ch/mammut/katalog.asp?view=detail&did=10&dart=4&tid=4514&sid=2

[Fuggedaboudit]

I am very happy with the pair of phoenix ropes that I bought last fall. Used them ice climbing this winter and took one of them this June on Liberty Ridge. For ice climbing they are awesome, you might consider the 70M option.

 

I had thought about buying a 30m rope for Lib Ridge but felt that the 2lbs in weight savings from a 30m rope did not = safety of longer rope in crevase rescue situation for party of 2. I was happy that we had the extra length when we pitched out parts of the climb. I also like them cause they come in red and blue which are easy to tell apart and are easy to yell out to the belayer when you are around a corner ("blue!" doesnt sound like "red!").

 

Be warned though they tangle up like a bitch when new, the first time you toss them for rappel you will be in for a nasty suprise if you dont run a belay device through them a few times end to end to get out the twists. It is also guaranteed that you be telling your friends to "yeah just step all over the ropes with the f-ing crampons" at every belay- they are thin!

 

I have thought about buying a joker or serenity and cutting it down to 50M, and bringing a second static line (maybe 5-6mm) for rapping. Just not at the level of skill for the type of climbs that would justify such a hot-rod setup.

[jmace]

Am I being stupid in not being able to decide between getting a 8.5mm or a 8 mm diameter rope? Does 0.5mm really make that much of a difference in terms of safety?

 

Safety no, they are both safe, durabilty and weight yea..I have the 7.5 twins so for me to get the 8.0 halfs...not really a point..ill get the 8.5's and save a few bucks and weights ok since most times ill have a third person when I use the halfs

 

if this is your only rope for alpine, id get the 8.0's, nice and light and beautiful rope. then on easy routes you just double it up and you hae a nice light system

 

in the end probably not too much of a difference...about half pound

[Ade]

My experience with the Beal/BD Icelines is they're great but maybe not super durable. Details here.