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Posted

i seem to recall that unless you have double ropes you can't rap the initial bullshit 4th class pitch as there's no suitable anchor - there might be another line off the top though that would bring you down through good anchors

 

the walkoff's not bad either - and you can frequently hitchhike back to the car w/ some exhulant mother-fucker who's just nailed das toof

Posted

Though, I missed the turnoff at the bottom of the trail where it flattens out and ended up brush bashing my way down a dry creekbed that butted up to the condos across the street from Alpy. I felt kinda stupid till I saw another party came walking up the road and found that they'd done the same thing.

 

As soon as you hit the flats, look for a trail off to your right. If you end up in a dry creekbed of white rock with brush that gets thicker and thicker, back up before you get sucked in too far.

 

It's not so bad if you do, though. Just a pain when you know there's an easier way smirk.gif

Posted

We ended up dropping off the main trail at an intersection at a flat pass, marked by two large trees laying perpendicular to the main trail...it dropped steeply down a good trail through dense brush, drifting through a few seeping creekbeds and cutting through slide alder and devils club without ever actually bushwhacking....there was a sign warning of avalanche control activity near the bottom and it popped out of the brush directly into the parking lot 50 feet from the car -- does that sound like the standard way down?

 

By the way, I give the Improbable Traverse a thumbs_down.gif for the long scree slog, the fact that there were only about 2-3 good pitches the entire day, the huge amount of duff-slogging and brushy climbing, and the complex walk-off...I'm GLAD I did it and will probably never do it again. Anyone else think this climb isn't worth repeating?

Posted

That sounds like the trail. I agree with your perspective...but its gotta be better than waiting in line to climb das toof. Did you see anybody else up there while you were climbing?

Posted

I think this route is actually pretty good. Short approach, quick descent, and two fun pitches. I would suggest climbing a fun 5.7ish crack below and too the right of lunch ledge, then doing the traverse pitch, or climbing a fun crack that goes straight up bypassing the traverse. Definatly worth checking out.

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