N Face Athabasca

[Skatan]

Checking for conditions, thought about mid September. Or other suggestions?

[jmckay]

Athabasca betaIt can be a great time to do Athabasca. Downside is that you walk in the dark for a couple extra hours but you can pick up that scenery on the way down. Possible snow but not likely. Weather historicaly good.

[Skatan]

Thanks for the info. I'll be heading up there 9-29 hoping to climb on the 30th. Any recent conditions would be great.

[Lix]

Climbed it Aug 26th or so - before it snowed and then got really hot again. The best bet for an idea of conditions is www.acmg.ca/mcr for the full mountain conditions summary and the guide submissions (basically what mckay posts but in a more concentrated form).

 

Great route and I heard after the fact the gully step is icier this year than others, but is not a simple steep ice step. About 2 bodylengths of mixed climbing quite challenging for someone who skis all winter. Fortunately there is a decent pin(s)? at the crux to yard/hang on if you can't come up with anything else and you clip your left tool to your harness and then can't get it off when you realize the good holds on that side are all iced up. Heard the N. Face to North Ridge option is quite nice this year with a couple foot wide strip of ice in the back of a chimney.

 

good luck up there. While you're up there, climb Kahl Wall on Yam. Best rock I saw up there this summer and not any scarier than the 5.8's.

[jmckay]

This precip that has to be flowing through the west coast is dumping snow in a big way. The Banff townsite has a about 15 cm new (4500'). This pacific flow is expected to continue for another day or two. Don't dispare as this may actually improve alpine conditions but the snow will have to settle out. Lord only knows ( or the Sunwapta wardens 403 522 5383) how much snow the icefields has gotten out of this but you can be sure that it is significant.

 

[Chad_A]

Well, maybe I picked the right time to go somewhere, for once. I leave tomorrow morning for the CDN Rockies for 6-7 day stretch. Maybe I'll be able to do a TR for you folks

[kurthicks]

how's Stanley NF looking these days Joe?

[jmckay]

last I heard was that it was bare ice and harder then usual. being on the divide it will be getting dumped on. This snowfall will be the base layer on North aspects, still plenty of time for the other aspects to melt off refreeze and melt again. I suspect tat this may help out a bit with rock fall and step kicking not to mention forming up some much needed ice on a few routes like the strain and shooting gallery. The tricky part will be what the avalanche hazard is on the leeward aspects and cooler temps at higher elevation. I am so glad that I am a feeble old man and don't have to to this stuff any more.

[kurthicks]

good to know. Thanks!

[jmace]

Snowfall amounts as of 11 AM: icefields parkway(highway 93).....20-25 cm

Grande Cache......................2 cm Canmore...........................3-4 cm

Jasper park gate..................5-6 cm

 

 

Colder air from the north will continue to move into Alberta today resulting in the greatest potential for snow overnight. Further snowfall accumulations of 10 to 20 centimetres are possible.