[TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock- West Face 8/6/2006

[ivan]

Hey....where's Sky and Eric's trip report...hahahahhaa

heard you guys had a fun time up there eh?

i'm certain i have no idea what yer talk'n 'bout!

[colt45]

Checked this route out yesterday, thanks for the great gear beta in your trip report! I think the corner is the best crack I have ever climbed. We brought a double set to 3.5 camalot and while it was a haul to drag it all up there, the extra gear was handy to have (I like to have lots of pro; bolder climbers would probably be fine with 1x 3 and 3.5). I'd give the corner and traverse pitches 11a; fell while trying the "5.12" section and decided to do an aid move to save time and because upon closer inspection the fixed nut didn't look like it would be good for repeated falls. (The moves seemed easier than 5.12, maybe 11d--very positive jamming and liebacking--but since I didn't actually climb the whole sequence cleanly it would be tough to say).

 

By the way, what's the deal with that "5.9" chimney?? Felt like burly 5.10 to me...

[layton]

it's a 5.8 chimney if you have the old select guide 1st ed

[cappellini]

i agree..there is no 5.12 on this route, i have free climbed all of it..