Mt. Erie Fun Times

[tivoli_mike]

Didn't find the Mt. Erie section for Trip Reports but I thought I would least post something here. Had a chance to go cragging w/ scottp on Friday. We decided hit Mt. Erie and try out Dallas Kloke's new guide to the area.

 

After a fun bushwack, and the establishment of a new trail to the Main Wall from above ( rose bushes really, really hurt) we did Zig Zag (5.7), Cowboy's Don't Cry (5.9), Springboard (5.8+), and Rejuvenator (5.10a). Springboard was my favorite with the sustained climbing , exposure, and the cool start:

 

 

Thanks to scottp for taking the photo...

[fishburneiv]

Any more pics? I love the view from up there.

[tivoli_mike]

When I get some more, I'll post them, or perhaps scott might when he gets around to it. Yeah, the views are my favorite for any cragging area in the area. A bit hazy that day, but we still had great views of the islands and Olympics.

[DirtyHarry]

I've never climbed at Eerie. From what I hear the climbing is somewhat uninspiring, but the views are great. That true?

[tivoli_mike]

Well, given the abundance of solid climbing in the state as a whole, the routes at Erie are , for the most part, not that exciting. Most of them can, heck all of them, can be pitched in one rope length, if you don't mind drag. The routes tend to be towards the moderate end, although the sport routes on the snag buttress and the headwall are in the 5.11/5.12 range ( thin crimpy holds, w/ some overhang on a few routes ). I wouldn't drive cross country just for Erie, but if I am in the mood for some fun cliff climbing w/ great views of the San Juans and an abundance of eagles flying on the thermals, eh it can't be beat.

[DirtyHarry]

Sounds like its worth a trip.

[tivoli_mike]

combine it with a trip to the san juans and/or deception pass ( nearby camping). Also , if it is too hot, checkout refrigerator wall nearby ( overhanging in the shade ) at the entrance of Rosario Beach.

 

I believe the Mt. Erie grocery store also has copies of Dallas Kloke's guide.

Edited August 7, 2006 by tivoli_mike

[Blake]

Mike, you can't do ALL the routes there with one rope. IMO the best route at erie is combining the first pitch of zig zag, with "Undercover" then going to "Springboard. Goes at 5.6, 5.7, 5.8+ and continuous climbing.

 

You can get a good blue alien or sideways small nut where your left hand is in that photo to protect the springboard traverse.

[tivoli_mike]

I think I ended up placing a piece there as well, before getting up on the face.

 

Zig Zag was a blast as well, we bootied at least one cam off it, there's still another on it, but we didn't have the time to get it out.

Edited August 7, 2006 by tivoli_mike

[Blake]

I had a nut placed at the top where undercover and zig-zag join that became fixed pro and was there for at least 6 months... did you notice if that was there as well?

[tivoli_mike]

hmm. no just a cam in the crack under the roof and then another one just before the lieback crux before the anchor bolts above the horizontal tree.

[Blake]

Here's Chris "MtnFreak" and I in the same spot last fall.

 

 

 

[Dannible]

Erie is the shit. I didn't really know it until I moved to Olympia, and now all I have near by is Fossil Rock, which I went to for the first time today. It doesn't come close. I like Erie better than a lot of other climbing areas that I have been to in Washington.

Edited August 8, 2006 by Dannible

[fishburneiv]

Thanks for the pics Blake. What a sweet view!

[els]

Erie is the shit. I didn't really know it until I moved to Olympia, and now all I have near by is Fossil Rock, which I went to for the first time today. It doesn't come close. I like Erie better than a lot of other climbing areas that I have been to in Washington.

 

I agree. We've had a lot of good times on Erie. It's pretty fortunate to have that much climbing so close to home. I defiantly miss it now that I moved away. City life sucks though, so I'll be back in just a few days. I can't wait to be back in a state that actually has mountains and start making up for lost time.

[tivoli_mike]

Here are two more:

 

[Mos_Chillin]

Thanks for the pics Blake. What a sweet view!

 

His ass isn't THAT great.

[olyclimber]

I've never climbed at Eerie. From what I hear the climbing is somewhat uninspiring, but the views are great. That true?

 

the view is pretty good. plus it is the "rain shadow" so they are usually dry up there when other stuff on the west side is wet. Also, there is a pretty good brewpub in Anacortes.