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Mt. Erie Fun Times


tivoli_mike

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Didn't find the Mt. Erie section for Trip Reports cry.gif but I thought I would least post something here. Had a chance to go cragging w/ scottp on Friday. We decided hit Mt. Erie and try out Dallas Kloke's new guide to the area.

 

After a fun bushwack, and the establishment of a new trail to the Main Wall from above ( rose bushes really, really hurt) we did Zig Zag (5.7), Cowboy's Don't Cry (5.9), Springboard (5.8+), and Rejuvenator (5.10a). Springboard was my favorite with the sustained climbing , exposure, and the cool start:

 

122DSCN1606.jpg

 

Thanks to scottp for taking the photo...

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Well, given the abundance of solid climbing in the state as a whole, the routes at Erie are , for the most part, not that exciting. Most of them can, heck all of them, can be pitched in one rope length, if you don't mind drag. The routes tend to be towards the moderate end, although the sport routes on the snag buttress and the headwall are in the 5.11/5.12 range ( thin crimpy holds, w/ some overhang on a few routes ). I wouldn't drive cross country just for Erie, but if I am in the mood for some fun cliff climbing w/ great views of the San Juans and an abundance of eagles flying on the thermals, eh it can't be beat.

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combine it with a trip to the san juans and/or deception pass ( nearby camping). Also , if it is too hot, checkout refrigerator wall nearby ( overhanging in the shade ) at the entrance of Rosario Beach.

 

I believe the Mt. Erie grocery store also has copies of Dallas Kloke's guide.

Edited by tivoli_mike
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Mike, you can't do ALL the routes there with one rope. IMO the best route at erie is combining the first pitch of zig zag, with "Undercover" then going to "Springboard. Goes at 5.6, 5.7, 5.8+ and continuous climbing.

 

You can get a good blue alien or sideways small nut where your left hand is in that photo to protect the springboard traverse.

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Erie is the shit. I didn't really know it until I moved to Olympia, and now all I have near by is Fossil Rock, which I went to for the first time today. It doesn't come close. I like Erie better than a lot of other climbing areas that I have been to in Washington.

Edited by Dannible
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Erie is the shit. I didn't really know it until I moved to Olympia, and now all I have near by is Fossil Rock, which I went to for the first time today. It doesn't come close. I like Erie better than a lot of other climbing areas that I have been to in Washington.

 

I agree. We've had a lot of good times on Erie. It's pretty fortunate to have that much climbing so close to home. I defiantly miss it now that I moved away. City life sucks though, so I'll be back in just a few days. I can't wait to be back in a state that actually has mountains and start making up for lost time.

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I've never climbed at Eerie. From what I hear the climbing is somewhat uninspiring, but the views are great. That true?

 

the view is pretty good. plus it is the "rain shadow" so they are usually dry up there when other stuff on the west side is wet. Also, there is a pretty good brewpub in Anacortes.

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