Bugaboos Beta Question and Answer

[Mr_D]

How high above the Kain hut did you camp?

 

-Mr D

Edited August 8, 2006 by fern

[Weekend_Climberz]

Applebea Dome Camp is about 250 meters up from the hut. About another hours walk with the huge packs we carried.

Edited August 8, 2006 by fern

[Mr_D]

Sorry to keep buggin' for details, but planning on going in a week. Does that require a first come first serve bivy permit? Is that the only "camping" aside from the hut, or are there others?

 

Thanks.

Edited August 8, 2006 by fern

[colt45]

Just got back from the bugs myself: there is no limit for Applebee and no reservation is required. The Kain hut however is limited to ~50 people, so you can get a reservation through the alpine club of canada or just show up and hope that space is available. There is also camping at Boulder Camp, but this is farther from the spires and fewer people stay there. The camping self-register station is in the hut.

[Mr_D]

Does the parking are contain an abundance of chicken wire, or is it a byocw party?

[colt45]

There's plenty of extra chicken wire in the lot. Among the available wire there are two sizes of mesh, and it is probably best to use the kind with the smaller holes (1" I think). On our way out we were watching rodents run right through the 2" mesh to get under peoples' cars. Probably not the same rodents that would eat your brake lines, but just to be safe...

[Mr_D]

Is there water to be treated/filtered at Applebee? Or do you have to melt snow?

 

 

Thanks again,

 

Mr. D

Edited August 8, 2006 by fern

[snoboy]

There always has been when I was there. I have drunk it straight with no ill effects.

 

I like to walk up to the tarn above applbee camp, rather than getting it from the lower creek that comes out of that tarn. It's easy to find.

[bstach]

Can anyone report on the state of the approach to the Bug/SnoPatch col? Is the 'schrund passable?

[northvanclimber]

Can anyone report on the state of the approach to the Bug/SnoPatch col? Is the 'schrund passable?

 

was there just last week. the schrund was stil passable, but the real issue for many people was the sheet of ice that you had to climb above the bergschrund. make sure your front points are sharp, otherwise try the sketchy scree on the right (bugaboo side of the col). it's also a little bit of a fiasco to descend the col, but most people could make do by rapping on the bugaboo side of the col. some of the rap stations are just a little high up on the rock and hard to get too since they were likely intended for use with a higher snow level. you'll figure it out though...

[underworld]

you can also come down on the south side of snowpatch. the rap route has nice new rap chains. easy to find, easy to use...single rope raps.

[bstach]

Thanks for the beta, I'm headin' up this weekend.

 

Clarification, though: thiere is no south side rappel route in the guide. Is this the Krause-McCarthy rappel or a new one in the area of Surf's Up? Does it end up in the Snowpatch/Pigeon Col?

[bstach]

Hey! Sweeet! I'm not a "stranger" anymore.

[colt45]

I believe underworld is referring to the rap route down the Pigeon-Snowpatch col, not a rap route down snowpatch spire.

 

This rappel is detailed in the guide, and would be a good option if you can't just walk down the bugaboo-snowpatch col for whatever reason and if there is a line on the bugaboo-snowpatch raps.