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Bugaboos Beta Question and Answer


Mr_D

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Sorry to keep buggin' for details, but planning on going in a week. Does that require a first come first serve bivy permit? Is that the only "camping" aside from the hut, or are there others?

 

Thanks.

Edited by fern
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Just got back from the bugs myself: there is no limit for Applebee and no reservation is required. The Kain hut however is limited to ~50 people, so you can get a reservation through the alpine club of canada or just show up and hope that space is available. There is also camping at Boulder Camp, but this is farther from the spires and fewer people stay there. The camping self-register station is in the hut.

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There's plenty of extra chicken wire in the lot. Among the available wire there are two sizes of mesh, and it is probably best to use the kind with the smaller holes (1" I think). On our way out we were watching rodents run right through the 2" mesh to get under peoples' cars. Probably not the same rodents that would eat your brake lines, but just to be safe...

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  • 3 weeks later...
Can anyone report on the state of the approach to the Bug/SnoPatch col? Is the 'schrund passable?

 

was there just last week. the schrund was stil passable, but the real issue for many people was the sheet of ice that you had to climb above the bergschrund. make sure your front points are sharp, otherwise try the sketchy scree on the right (bugaboo side of the col). it's also a little bit of a fiasco to descend the col, but most people could make do by rapping on the bugaboo side of the col. some of the rap stations are just a little high up on the rock and hard to get too since they were likely intended for use with a higher snow level. you'll figure it out though...

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I believe underworld is referring to the rap route down the Pigeon-Snowpatch col, not a rap route down snowpatch spire.

 

This rappel is detailed in the guide, and would be a good option if you can't just walk down the bugaboo-snowpatch col for whatever reason and if there is a line on the bugaboo-snowpatch raps.

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