Mt. Hood/Old Chute

[uwjennie]

Hi,

 

I'm from California and in Washington for a part of the summer. I'm looking for a bit of route info.

 

The most recent report on the Mt. Hood conditions by the National Forest Service says: The South Side route from Hogsback is still climbable but not advisable. There has been a progressive trend for those to avoid the South Side route all together and climb the Old Chute instead.

 

Can anyone point to some more route info on the Old Chute? I'm also looking for someone who is going in the area on next Saturday or Sunday (July 22 or 23).

 

Thanks!

Jennie

[ScaredSilly]

The Old Chute is to the climbers left of the Std. S. Side Route. For several decades the Hogsback lead up to it. It is well described in Jeff Thomas's book Oregon High.

[Frikadeller]

The standard route up the south side has been directly in line with where the Hogsback ridge went, and ended in a narrow colouir called "Peraly gates"... but this winter the snowridge (hogsback) shifted sharply to the west, elimnating the "straight shot" at the "pearly gates", so people have been climbing to the climbers left into a colouir named "old shute" which is named so because in the early days of the climbing the mountain, this was the more direct route, because the snow ridge terminated there.

 

This year, the old chute is a little steeper in some sections than pealy gates, but has less exposure. I have climbed both routes this year, before the Bergshrund opened, so I have no realy idea how people are passing the schrund this year. Probably to the climbers right.

 

I think that the FS is just trying to caution you, because it is getting later in the season, and when things warm up, there is a good amount of rock fall in these colouirs later in the day. If you do climb it, I would advise to do so before the sun hits that side (read: at night, or before full sunrise)...

The south side is better, as are most routes on Hood, done in early in the spring or in winter, if weather permits.

 

Check out the "oregon cascades" section of this board, there are lots of Trip reports with pictures of this years routes...

 

And of course as suggested, Jeff Thomas's Book is one of the better guides to the routes on Mt. Hood...

 

http://www.powells.com/biblio?isbn=0962904201

 

Edited July 17, 2006 by Frikadeller

[uwjennie]

Thanks for the info, it always helps to hear from the locals.

 

Cheers,

Jennie

[Cobra_Commander]

That rack of quickdraws on that guy's harness in the photo is pretty core. Is there some locals-only proj going on up there I don't know about?

[Frikadeller]

Dont ask any questions, and dont go snooping around either, or we'll have to kick your barney ass, Bra!

[corvallisclimb]

Cobra, prolly another failed attempt on Castle Crags Direct.

[cj001f]

Cobra, prolly another failed attempt on Castle Crags Direct.

nope, secret oregon sport mixed crag