DirtyHarry Posted July 10, 2006 Posted July 10, 2006 So, climbing at Squishy this past weekend and some dude was cleaning / trundling from a route he was developing on the north wall. Cool looking line and definitly worthy , but he had the whole north gulley roped off and closed so he could clean up his route and he was definitly cleaning - consistently sending down lots of big blocks. As a result any climb accessed from North Gulley was de facto CLOSED, as was any early exit off of Angel's Crest. It was cool that he roped the area off and put up sings warning climbers what was going on since anyone venturing into the North Gulley probably would have gotten smashed. However, why would someone choose to clean a route in a popular approach gulley on a Saturday in mid-summer? It seems very arrogant and inconsiderate to me. Why not do it on a weekday or a rainy day or both? Maybe that is considered proper ettiquette at Squamish, but I know if someone did that at Index, such aggression would not stand! So happened that it wasn't a h uge inconvenience for us or anything, but it still seemed lame. Quote
G-spotter Posted July 11, 2006 Posted July 11, 2006 North Gully is popular climb? "Early exit off Angel's Crest" you mean FAILURES on Angel's Crest Quote
DirtyHarry Posted July 11, 2006 Author Posted July 11, 2006 It accesses popular climbs, dipshit. And people may wish to exit off Angel's Crest due to getting backed up behind slow gaper parties, or if gaper parties epic. Whatever. Quote
catbirdseat Posted July 11, 2006 Posted July 11, 2006 Doesn't the trail to The Ultimate Everything cross the North Gully? Quote
matt_m Posted July 11, 2006 Posted July 11, 2006 It accesses popular climbs, dipshit. And people may wish to exit off Angel's Crest due to getting backed up behind slow gaper parties, or if gaper parties epic. Whatever. Not to be a pain but WHAT popular climbs are UP north gully? I know there's stuff at the very bottom (not even really in the gully) such as northern lights (popular may be a stretch since any hard 11d with a rep by rule isn't "popular") Everything I've heard about N. Gully was essentially "NEVER GO UP IT and at all costs avoid going down it!" Maybe the cleaner is giving us reason to go up it? Quote
G-spotter Posted July 11, 2006 Posted July 11, 2006 Doesn't the trail to The Ultimate Everything cross the North Gully? NO, but thanks for trying! Quote
DirtyHarry Posted July 11, 2006 Author Posted July 11, 2006 Rock On. And some 10d on the left side of the gulley. Also, we probably would have bailed off Angel's Crest to go climb something else after getting backed up behind a few parties, though it turned out to be pretty fun in a social sort of way. Quote
fern Posted July 11, 2006 Posted July 11, 2006 Rock on, Koyansqatsi, etc. are in the south gully. North gully is stuff like Zodiac Wall, Yukon Gold etc. Rarely climbed and filthy. Nevertheless trundling on Saturday is poor form. Maybe it's the same heroes who were trundling in the western dihedrals on the weekends last summer. when I was climbing Angels Crest the weekend before there were gaper tourists on the Zodiac summit chucking rocks down into the gully. Even our scrubbing hero might not be safe in there on the weekends. Winter is a better time to prep routes on the Chief. Quote
G-spotter Posted July 11, 2006 Posted July 11, 2006 It would have been funny if Pete had baled off Angels Crest and then tried to find Mercy Street in the same gully Quote
fern Posted July 11, 2006 Posted July 11, 2006 ya so funny hahahahah ... I am literally rolling on the floor that someone from out of town would be a little unfamiliar with the location of routes in squamish where the north walls face east and the south gully faces north and the western dihedrals are at the south end of the cliff ... hehehe ... stop me before I pee my pants .... Quote
DirtyHarry Posted July 11, 2006 Author Posted July 11, 2006 Rock on, Koyansqatsi, etc. are in the south gully. Oops. My bad. Its been a while since I climbed those. Quote
G-spotter Posted July 11, 2006 Posted July 11, 2006 ya so funny hahahahah ... I am literally rolling on the floor that someone from out of town would be a little unfamiliar with the location of routes in squamish where the north walls face east and the south gully faces north and the western dihedrals are at the south end of the cliff ... hehehe ... stop me before I pee my pants .... Can you give me the GPS cordinates for the start of Dierdre? Quote
fern Posted July 17, 2006 Posted July 17, 2006 Can you give me the GPS cordinates for the start of Dierdre? Quote
fern Posted July 17, 2006 Posted July 17, 2006 here's the coordinates for the parking lot so you can find your car again once you are done. Good to know in case you are on Diedre for so long that senility starts to take hold. Quote
G-spotter Posted July 17, 2006 Posted July 17, 2006 It's a good thing you are online to help me, and a good thing I brought my laptop up the route. I can get WiFi from here! Now, please, what is the GPS coordinate of the base of the dihedral. We are having trouble finding the traverse. My GPS says we are at 270m elevation, exactly 182.65m SSE of the parking lot. The last bolt is aproximately 3.7 meters right of me. Quote
fern Posted July 17, 2006 Posted July 17, 2006 It may be some time before I can collect the necessary data points. I suggest you bivy where you are so as not to get further lost. Quote
G-spotter Posted July 19, 2006 Posted July 19, 2006 If you'd like I can link my helmet cam into my laptop and turn in into a webcam! Quote
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