[TR] Mount Baker - North Ridge 6/25/2006

[Pochi]

Climb: Mount Baker -North Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 6/25/2006

 

Trip Report:

I took 3 mounty climbers to Baker North Ridge. I wanted to climb it in a day, but the others insteded to climb in 2 days, so we did it 6/-24-25. The approach was straight forward. Camped about 6,300ft on a rock. It has a few established tent sites. It was very warm night Freezing level was above 14,00ft, but a bit windy at the campsite. Got up 12am, was ready to start at 1am with one rope tem with 4 climbers. Started traversing about 6,500 ft, and ended in crevasse island. Zigzaged up and down, and finally got out. Changed a rope leader, and headed higher elevation about 7,300 ft. Here we go, we were in Creases Island again. It is really hard to navigate Coleman GI in complete dark. It was new moon.

Our first plan was to climb Lower approach, however we ended up the base of upper approach( according to Nelson's book there are 2 approaches). The slope was about 40 degrees. The snow was very soft ,and was hard to make steps. We placed a few pickets, and climbed running belays. Topped out on North ridge about 8,800ft. Form there, climbed leftward on 30-45 degrees slope. Then hit the ice face that I was able to put screw for an anchor. There was ice underneath of 4-5 inches of slush snow. The fist pitch is good solid ice climbing 70 degrees. Above that another pitch of OK ice. After ice pitch the slope opens up onto broader slopes about 40-50 degrees. Then climbed up leftward underneath the big ice cap, then to the summit. Freaking Long 11 hours from camp to summit! Coming back down Coleman Deming GI was nightmare. The snow was heavy and wet and deep. Got to the car at 5pm.

 

I want to do this climb when it is cold.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Ice tool

6 Ic screws per rope team

4 pickets per rope team

 

Approach Notes:

Super good condition. but millions people on the trail when it's nice day.

[kurthicks]

find my ice tool?

[catbirdseat]

Thanks for the memories. I did the route under virtually identical sloppy conditions a few years ago. Next time I will wait for cooler temperatures.

[Weekend_Climberz]

Nice job up there.

 

Gotta love the slop.

[scottgg]

find my ice tool?

 

Now you can get those Cobras Kurt

[petek]

Mizuki, I just missed you on Hunter, now on the North Ridge. I think I saw you headed up the trail on Saturday about noon, looking determined. We climbed the ridge Saturday morning, camp to summit in a little under five hours. Great conditions!I took off first thing Wednesday morning, having a sense of perfect conditions for the week. We climbed the Price Glacier on Shuksan Thursday,and conditions were ideal. Both these routes should be good for a few more weeks, as long as you get a really early start to beat the mid-day mush. One of my best weeks in the Cascades ever.

[StickBoy]

Hey Pochi,

You wouldn't have happened upon a picket with a black tied webbing just above the first ice pitch would you've? My partner dropped it while we were climbing on Sat.

 

I would also like to do this route when it's cold. Awesome day of climbing though.

[Pochi]

I did not find any ice tool or picket on the route. No one was on North ridge Sunday except us. I lost one OR clove on the ridge also.

[whidbey]

Bootie trip coming up

[northvanclimber]

The slope was about 40 degrees. The snow was very soft ,and was hard to make steps.

 

Thanks for the steps, it made our ascent on the 26th a lot easier

 

Was a great route, but dang, the soft snow made it a real slog at times, especially on the descent.. post-holing all the way back to camp. it was so warm at night that the snow didn't freeze up at all. saw lots of people (and i mean LOTS) on the colman/deming route, but with the warm temps, it's really a nasty slog...