Unicorn Peak Beta

[spotly]

Does anyone have a topo or image of the routes for Unicorn Peak summit block that they'd be willing to share? I'm particularly interested in the standard 5.6 route that's supposed to be about 10 yards to the right of the chimney route. Also, any recommendations for what pro to drag up there? I know the routes are short and I could just go and do it but I'm new enough to trad that I'd prefer to use whatever handicaps I can get for now. Thanks much.

[dan_forester]

The easiest way to get to the top of the summit block as I recall is all the way to the right, like the SE corner maybe? It's much easier than 5.6, more like 4.10b. I think it takes smaller stoppers, don't remember using anything very big, except a large hex for a belay anchor at the bottom. Of course my memory isn't very good. Take a double set of camalots and you'll be fine.

[cluck]

The corner all the way right is definitely the easiest way up, but the 5.6 route you describe is nice line. There's an old pin part way up that may still have a blue runner on it. If you can find that, just start somewhere below it and head up by whichever way looks best. It protects well with small to midsize nuts & cams. Don't bother bringing any large gear. Set up your top belay by slinging the large rocks at the top rather than the shrub.

 

If you get spooked leading it, you can always bail & climb the easy way. Then drop a rope and climb it on top rope (provided you're not in anyone else's way of course).

 

There's a pic of the routes on SummitPost but the site's down right now so I can't post a link. Just go to www.summitpost.com and search for Unicorn Peak. The picture is on the route page.

[spotly]

I remember readying about that blue webbibg on SP now that you mention it. I should have downloaded that route image when they were up and running yesterday - doh. Thanks.

[cluck]

I dug the pic up from my computer and posted it here:

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=18744&size=big&sort=1&cat=500

 

Don't sweat the routefinding too much. Basically I just lined up under the piton & just headed up toward it taking the path of least resistance.

 

Good luck - it's a super fun climb. High payoff with little suffering plus fantastic views of Rainier the whole way!

[spotly]

Hey, that's great! Thanks very much. I guess I'm ready for it. 5.6 is cake so it's all just mental - meticulous and calm. It'll be my first trad out in "the wilds" so there's that whole sense of excitement and aprehension - it's gonna be great! Now if I can get the rack down to a managable size. Something tells me a full set of hexes and cams to #2 with doubles at .75 and 2 might be a bit too much for this short route Hard to leave the toys at home though Thanks again.

[spotly]

So, we made it up and opted for the easier route to the right. Like you said, mainly a scramble with one or two low 5 moves. Protected it with a #10 hex above the scramble then a small/medium nut at the crux. A very nice climb. The 5.6 routes look like all bomber holds as well. The route is in great condition right now. No scree - all good snow. The moat between the top of the last steep draw and the short cliff leading to the upper ridge is only a few feet from the rock right now and fairly easy to cross. A good climb - thanks for the beta. Though I must confess that I brought WAY too much gear for such an easy climb. It's hard to leave the toys at home

[dan_forester]

I was just kidding about the double set of camalots, sorry.

 

Nice job!

[justybug]

thanks for posting this! looking forward to getting up there.

[Rad]

I climbed a line that's not in the photo above.

 

It starts 5-10 feet left of the crest of the ridge that leads out to the Unicorn horn. There were a few moves straight up and then some fun moves left past a slanting overlap/corner. It was probably 5.6ish, protected with a few nuts or cams in the 1/2 to 3/2 inch range.

 

It was cool because it drops off fairly steeply on that side of the pinnacle so you feel higher up than you actually are. I'd guess there was only 40 feet of climbing.

 

Take a 30m rope and just a few pieces in the 0.5 to 1.5 inch range to save on weight.

 

Go for the ambience, not the rock moves, because it's a long hike for 40 feet of easy climbing.

 

Have fun.