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olyclimber

[TR] Index G-M Route- G-M and other stuff (Thin Fi

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Thanks Gary! I'll print this out and try it next time I head out to Index in about 3 months.

 

 

Regarding the crux of the second pitch, here's some beta from an old file I wrote a long time ago when I was even more obsessed with climbing:

Locate two small edges about 2 feet and 4 feet off
ledge.  The key hold is a small diagonal edge around the corner to the
right about 3 feet off the ledge.  You can use this edge to undercling
and hold your feet on the small edges.  Start with left foot on bottom
edge, use undercling out right and tiny thin crack for left hand.  Pull
up and set right toe on upper edge.  Get balanced and stand up straight
on edge, at which time you should be able to snag nice hold in upper 
corner.   

 

and also, have good edging shoes and make sure it's not too hot out. grin.gif

 

CHUCK! where is the other 3K of climbing procedures for index?

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index was hoppin this afternoon! lil ulee did his first multipitch and did the first 3/4 of pitch 1 of japenese gardens. there was also some whoops as some lass finished a climb with almost no pro as it fell out as she moved above it. a good time was had by all, and no one peed on the stove like at ski-in.

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hell, even ivan was there after spending the night at the top of pitch 2 of city park :)

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Index!   And my favorite beta all time from Chuck:

Locate two small edges about 2 feet and 4 feet off
ledge.  The key hold is a small diagonal edge around the corner to the
right about 3 feet off the ledge.  You can use this edge to undercling
and hold your feet on the small edges.  Start with left foot on bottom
edge, use undercling out right and tiny thin crack for left hand.  Pull
up and set right toe on upper edge.  Get balanced and stand up straight
on edge, at which time you should be able to snag nice hold in upper 
corner.   

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