[TR] Dragontail- Triple Couloirs 5/13/2006

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Climb: Dragontail-Triple Couloirs

 

Date of Climb: 5/13/2006

 

Trip Report:

I met up with vw4ever and masternate32 on Friday morning for the drive over to Leavenworth. We started hiking around 2:30 from the Stuart Lake TH and made Colchuck around 5:30 PM. My new Cilogear pack carried pretty well and the boot pack up there was ok, but follows a pretty weird route. As it was already getting pretty chilly (but not like it was in up there in Feb) we boiled some water, ate dinner, and shared a couple of cigars and shots of single malt (vw's group gear contribution ). We all crawled into my 2 man tent at 9.

 

The alarm went off at 4 and it was already light enough to get ready without headlamps. I finally dragged myself out of camp at 5:15 a few minutes after everyone else. The lake was still hard enough to walk on (in most places) so it wasn't long till we were slogging up the hill to the base of the first couloir. The first couloir was longer than we thought (since you can't see it from the lake), but there were bucket steps all the way up so we made quick time again. The ice runnel we were hoping was hiding in there wasn't. We opted to head up a little farther to look for the snow ramps instead of the runout drytooling to find the ice up higher. A short bit up farther up the couloir and we were able to traverse back left and find a rap anchor from an earlier party. After a short break and some looking around we decided the best thing to do was to rap about 30 feet down to the ice runnels and follow them the rest of the way to the second couloir. This was the only time we used the rope or any pro, one nut to back up the nut and pin anchor (which nate dropped while cleaning, if you find a small chouinard nut it's mine).

 

After rapping in to the runnels we climbed up to just below the second couloir. The entrance to the second couloir was blocked by a constriction with very little ice, but a few mixed moves in slightly cramped quarters found us all in nice snow again with a bit of an ice crust. I got a couple nice shiners from stuff nate kicked down before we got smart and started climbing closer together. The second couloir ended with another mostly snow covered ramp up right and a short but rather exposed mixed traverse up into the third couloir. From there it was just a final push up the snow slopes to the ridge crest not far from the summit. The snow was still hard enough that we could make out ski tracks from teleross's earlier descent. Bursting into the sun at the ridge we took a short break for water and food and checked the watch, only 9:30 AM. I guess you move faster when you're not bothering with the rope and pro, didn't think I was gonna be simul-soloing the whole thing. We made the short walk to the summit, took the mandatory pictures, and enjoyed the sun for a few mins. It was awesome to finally be on top after such a beautiful route. We'd all been eyeing that line on the mountain for a while.

 

Then we started the long walk down to Asgard Pass. Sadly the pass was still too icy for and glissading, so it was more long and painful downhill walking to get back to camp. We returned to the sunny lakeshore rocks a little while after 11.

 

Returning rather earlier than we expected we spent a lot of time hanging out and napping, enjoying more cigars and scotch, and wishing we had all brought books to read. Later in the evening Olyclimber made an appearance and we invited him to join our camp as the lakeside was filling up fast. VW, Nate, and I decided we were all still feeling good and that we ought to try something on Colchuck the next day. For that though you'll have to see the next TR. We crawled back into the tent a 8 and we soon snoring away again.

 

Unfortunately I still live in film camera land, but hopefully we'll get some pictures in here soon.

 

Gear Notes:

Brought: 60m half rope, 6 nuts, 4 cams, 5 pins, 5 short screws, 2 pickets.

 

Used: rope (needed 30m max), 1 small nut

 

Approach Notes:

Can drive to the TH now, trail is still mostly snow, watch for the snow gators and hungry trees.

[olyclimber]

Here is a pic. Nice to meet yall, thanks for sharing the campsite.

[Chad_A]

Here's the pics that I have (not too many). We were moving quite along, so we didn't take the time...wish we would have.

 

Nate and Stewart in the Hidden Couloir.

 

Stewart checking the rap anchor before the rappel into the second runnel.

 

Stewart coming out of the fun section of the second runnel.

 

Nate above the second runnel.

 

All three on top.

 

A couple of the Enchantments Expanse:

A great team to be out with. Stay tuned for the TR for the NEBC...

 

-Chad

[mountainmatt]

Nice photos! Sounds like a good time

[AJScott]

Cool, I think i ran into you guys on my way up assgaurd saturday. I was the fool who thought he could skin up the pass...HAH! I hate carrying skis. It didnt dawn on me until later in the day that it was strange to see you guys coming down so early...you guys smoked that route! nice style! Btw...i made that traverse over to Colchuck and skiied the Colchuck Glacier like i was asking about...sick corn styleeeeee. Great day to be out!

[Chad_A]

Yeah, it was a great day to be out. That route went silky smooth. Really alot of fun, and aesthetic. I hope to spend quite a bit more time on Dragontail

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Here are a few more pics, forgot to resize, but the big ones are in my gallery:

 

Vw and Nate in the first couloir.

VW rapping in to the ice runnel.

Nate rapping in.

VW in the second couloir.

Edited May 17, 2006 by OlympicMtnBoy

[OlegV]

Awesome trip, great pictures guys!!! Well done!

I want to do this route one day

[Chad_A]

Here's some of Nate's pics; I just received them yesterday.

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks, Nate!

[RCLee]

how long is this route usually in condition, i.e. is it still climbable late June? Thanks--

[Chad_A]

Typically, it's listed as a February to May route. It's been a reasonably warm spring (very little freeze-thaw) so I'd expect that it's well out of shape by now.