esugi Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 Doing the route tomorrow. Any recent beta? I'll post a TR upon my return. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 get up early...have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 I thought most people wait until there is actually ice on the route. This time of year it will be a simple snow slog. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 There's more than enough ice on the ice cliff. I'd recommend taking four to six screws at the very least, having had an interesting experience climbing it with two screws last Thursday. Have fun and hit it before the snow slopes get too sloppy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 I thought there was supposed to be an easy ramp way left? Not that I ever saw it, but I remember seeing pictures somewhere of 50-60 degree ice...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 I'd still recommend screws. There did look to be an easy ramp over there, but it requires a significant amount of time on blue ice and it's very exposed to the Roosevelt Glacier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 Yeah just curious if such easier ground actually exists. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swaterfall Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 I thought most people wait until there is actually ice on the route. This time of year it will be a simple snow slog. Every report I've heard recently seems to suggest that the easy ice ramp is no longer there. That was my experience there two years ago. I'd be interested to see what it's like now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 Can't believe I didn't get any pictures of your line... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 We went to the base of the arrow on the horizon. I don't think the climbing would have ever been much past 60 degrees there, but it might have required more than a 30m rope of distance on the ice. We climbed between the two red dots, which included a couple 75 degree-ish steps. That's just way too much beta. Hopefully esugi's already gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 The Mather-McDonald looks reasonably in, when you gonna ski that one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 the NR is in good condition as of today. we had 4 screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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