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Posted

There's more than enough ice on the ice cliff. I'd recommend taking four to six screws at the very least, having had an interesting experience climbing it with two screws last Thursday. Have fun and hit it before the snow slopes get too sloppy.

Posted

I'd still recommend screws. There did look to be an easy ramp over there, but it requires a significant amount of time on blue ice and it's very exposed to the Roosevelt Glacier.

Posted
I thought most people wait until there is actually ice on the route. This time of year it will be a simple snow slog.

 

Every report I've heard recently seems to suggest that the easy ice ramp is no longer there. That was my experience there two years ago. I'd be interested to see what it's like now.

Posted

2722NorthRidgeMarks.jpg

 

We went to the base of the arrow on the horizon. I don't think the climbing would have ever been much past 60 degrees there, but it might have required more than a 30m rope of distance on the ice.

 

We climbed between the two red dots, which included a couple 75 degree-ish steps.

 

That's just way too much beta. Hopefully esugi's already gone. yellaf.gifsnugtop.gif

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