conditions of ice cliff?

[UW_climber]

might be a little too late but want to know conditions of the icg on stuart. want to head in there tonight. thanks.

[yesman]

I camped near the base of the route monday night - it looked to be in good shape, with the best passage on climbers left. Descent of Sherpa also looked good.

[JoshK]

Too Late? The route is always doable - just harder as more things melt out. It's probably a slog, for the most part, right now. If you want more of a climb, then go later in the year when there is ice.

[UW_climber]

no I just meant too late before I head out tonight. I'm thinking of doing it in a day starting tonight.

[UW_climber]

Mainly I'm wondering about how the crevasses are looking.

[John Frieh]

Almost always you don't encounter any crevasses until you are above the ice climbing step in the upper cirque. Basically climb the ice cliff on the left... this time of year you should be able to get super high on snow before you need to break out the tools and screws. Who ever leads tell them to head left towards the rocks once they get past the cliff and you will likely find a pin over there as well as plenty of opportunity for a rock belay. Bring up the second; get into a glacier rig and head up the upper couloir. You should be able to simuclimb all the way to the final step (depending on comfort level) where you can one last lead to gain the summit slopes.

 

Have fun!

[JoshK]

Or solo it...

[Gary_Yngve]

The original poster and gang found the ice cliff route to be in good shape, though with the requisite rockfall that everyone seems to encounter.

[skykilo]

We didn't see any rockfall last Wednesday. It was certainly in the best shape I've ever seen it though. Oh yeah.