Mt Hood - South Side TR's 2006 (post yours here!!)

[corvallisclimb]

This is the thread for anything relevant to the south side route in 2006, so post your TR's, pictures, beta and or route conditions here. I think this will be handy to have all the information in one thread and it will be easy to watch the route progress through out the season.

 

Mods, if you dont like my idea, feel free to delete.

Edited May 12, 2006 by corvallisclimb

[corvallisclimb]

South Side - 2.9.06

South Side - 2.9.06

South Side - 4.19.06

South Side - 4.23.06

South Side - 4.24.06

South Side - 4.27.06

Edited May 2, 2006 by corvallisclimb

[Reinhart]

Climbed Hood on Saturday with a group of three. The normal south route was packed through the Gates, so we took the Old Route from Hogsback. It gave us a great view of the Bergschrund and the really sketchy looking snow bridge that everyone was crossing. On the way back down we decided to climber in the Schrund and take some pictures to share here. Judge for yourself, but after getting a good look at it from underneath, there is no way that I would take that bridge. The Old Route is in perfect condition and had no traffic.

 

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/teamcoldandhungry/detail?.dir=d6f2scd&.dnm=410ascd.jpg&.src=ph

[MountaingirlBC]

Climb: Mount Hood South Side Pics-South Side

 

Date of Climb: 5/5/2006

 

Trip Report:

I have loads of pics online including several of the bergschrund here: http://www.alpinescribes.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=101 from my trip May 4-5. My tr is mostly self indulgent drivel and I doubt cc needs another Hood South Side tr but if you're really that bored you can read it on my site: http://www.mountaingirl.net/hood0506/trip.htm

 

Gear Notes:

used rope, carried pickets & all the usual bells & whistles. shoulda had more sunscreen *ouch*.

[wannabe]

Just got back from a look-see this morning (5/11). Snow was in good shape but it did not appear that things got as cold last night as there was copious ice coming down either side of the hogback from above. The bridge seems VERY thin now and we decided not to take the giant step sans rope. Had we come with rope and anchors, it would have been a quick hop over and on up. Another party of two made the same decision. Attachment is looking down into the shrund from the "bridge" (about 20 ft down or more). Monkey had fun at the hogback saddle.

[corvallisclimb]

nice photo

[PaulO]

Here are a couple pic's from Sunday (14th).

Bridge is about gone, would not be surprised if today's heat did it in.

 

Photo taken with camera at an angle so tilt your head to the left.

Makes bridge look narrower than it is but shows it is scant 3 maybe feet thick and

undercut on both sides 20+ feet:

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=17959&size=big&sort=1&cat=500

 

 

Someone crossing bridge shows actual width:

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=17960&size=big&sort=1&cat=500

[BreezyD]

Climb: Mount Hood South Side

 

Date of Trip: 5/13/06 - 5/14/06

 

Trip Report:

Feeling like it was high time for an outing, Matt and I headed down to Oregon to play in the snow. South side route was in great shape all the way up from TLine. Camped at 9300' to savor our various dehyrates over a stellar sunset. Up early and up at the summit a few minutes after sunrise. Bergschrund bridge was thin but solid so we simply moved quickly. Conditions up hogsback and through the gates were good. Solid steps established from bergschrund to the summit. Descent was uneventful. After a nice morning nap at camp, we leisurely wandered back to the car.

 

Gear Notes:

Crampons, axe, spankin' new Coppertone 50 block for the sunny descent.

Had rope, harness, pickets but never used them.

 

Approach Notes: TLine Parking Lot

 

My attempts at a summit heel kick:

 

 

Bergschrund Bridge Crossing:

 

Full versions and more pics located HERE.

[bgrass]

South-Side compatriots -

I'm hoping to collect a little beta/have some assumptions confirmed. I haven't been up on Hood since the early days of my climbing 'career' 8 or more years ago. I was there in an August and the 'schrund was wide open and the Pearly Gates (?) were littered with bowling ball-sized and larger rocks. IF my memory is correct, the schrund was passable on climber's left if you wanted to be sporty and then immediately traverse under a chossy looking cliff band with little to no margin for error above the schrund. Not really my idea of a good time so we turned around.

 

I was hoping to take a couple of low-experience level friends on a moderate route on Hood, but based on reading the thread (and the fact no one has posted a TR for 3 weeks on the south spur!) I'm guessing the schrund is open and I would be back to my 'sporty' route around it. Can anyone confirm or deny this assumption?

 

Assuming the south route isn't safe for newbies, I've heard mention a number of times about going the 'old route' on the south spur, which I believe is one gully west of the normal route. What I don't know is if you still have to get above the 'schrund to access this alternate route. If that route is viable, anyone have a recommendation for a source of more info? Any other moderate route suggestions on Hood or Oregon volcanos?

 

Thanks in advance for the input. And by the way, this is my first post, so please be easy on me!

[ivan]

i doubt the schrund's that huge a deal currently, but still might freak newbies out - if you do go the whole using a rope route just be sure to take plenty of picketts to make it all safe

 

also consider hte cooper spur route - far more aethestically pleasing, just as easy really, and a much cooler experience

[MatthewS]

I was just up there yesterday (my first time) and I don't think the route is in good condition for beginners. The bergschrund crossing (on the right side) was pretty trivial but the climbing from the schrund up through the summit gullies was quite icy and there were no steps. The real sketchy part, though, was the constant rain of ice chunks coming down from the gullies (knocked down by other climbers - Thank you Timberline guides ). I saw some good bowling-ball sized pieces just barely miss some climbers. I got hit pretty solidly at least 3-4 times by fist-sized pieces: this definitely rattled my nerves a bit. I'd second the recommendation on another route. Well, at least the weather was perfect!

[Cobra_Commander]

the constant rain of ice chunks coming down from the gullies (knocked down by other climbers - Thank you Timberline guides ). I saw some good bowling-ball sized pieces just barely miss some climbers.

 

How inconsiderate! They should have been thinking about those who would be climbing directly underneath them regardless of the amount of crap coming down, and levitate to the summit.

[MatthewS]

Well, it was more annoying that they passed us after we were some ways above the bergschrund. There were certainly better routes they could have taken to pass us. Anyway, now I've done the South Side - don't think I'll have the urge to climb that again anytime soon

[Cobra_Commander]

Yeah I would be annoyed if I was passed by a guided group on that route too. I certainly wouldn't admit that on a public forum though.

[MatthewS]

I will say that I'm a complete beginner when it comes to snow/ice travel so being passed isn't at all embarassing: just wanted to share my experience. Hell, I'm still proud of my summit. Damn you Cobra, managed to get a lurker like me to post 3 times in a day!