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Posted
G-spotter said:

Hello Friends!

 

Summer is now coming to here!

 

When should we have our portaledge Love Parade on the Toothie? I dont think too many new bolted anchors will be required. Mr Gowans may invite all the women he knows and Fence Spitter too. Between the two of them, that might be one girl! yellaf.gif

Mr Gowans would never dare introduce the cadre of fine Euro fillies he has at his disposal to such an uncouth bunch of slobbering, slothful, slimey, saps. I think I shall organize a rival portaledge party on the little rock adjacent to the Tooth. It shall be a full British monarchy endorsed expedition with much fanfare in the local tabloids and a long line of under employed Americans carrying our picnic hampers up to Pineapple Pass. wave.gif

Posted
North_by_Northwest said:

It's good to see a little comedy, creativity and opinion go into a TR instead of the same deadpan climbing stuff. I actually read all of yours. It would have been a little better if you'd have made it a full-on Eiger Sanction parody though.

 

"There is room for half a dozen climbers up here, perhaps one day we should have a party, with portaledges and DJ music."

 

I hear they do that on this face in Arizona every year. We need a similar but alpine style party. Maybe a Boston Basin kegger or a Stuart summit bivy rave.

 

bringing that up to the top! rockband.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifbigdrink.gif

Posted

Took a friend up Der Toof last Sunday. Scrambled up the steep gully directly to Pinnaple pass because it looked funner. grin.gif

Got snide remarks from a group of mountainiers, like:

"That guys a fool for climbing all the way to the tree in one pitch"

"He shouldn't be running it out like that"

"they should have 2 ropes"

-But the runouts wern't bad and you don't need two ropes.

I saw 7 people with shorts over polypro. yelrotflmao.gif

It was the usual Tooth drama.

Watching their war machine maching their way up those two pitches was very entertaining.

We placed one #3 Friend, and stoppers 7,9,10,11,12.

Had some fun glissades.

Car to car, 5 hours.

 

We saw a bit of litter on the route hellno3d.gif, mostly granola bar wrappers and juice containers.

Posted

Not really related, but not worth a whole new topic - I met two guys spending Saturday night on Saber Ledge. They had jumars, bivy sacks, even coffee for the morning. That was pretty cool...

bigdrink.gif

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Was up there Sunday, saw some dude FLYING with nothing more than a water bottle and rock shoes and a helluva lot of speed to go up the Tooth. I wouldn't be surprised if he went roundtrip from the TH in an hour or hour and a half.

There's a booty cam up near the summit, along that little ridge after the catwalk and before you top out. A .75 Camalot, I think. Fully retracted and in apparently good condition.

Also, there is a rap anchor midway down the dirty/wet gully at the base of the climb thereby avoiding the Pineapple Pass traverse... with a single rope.

The summit was great (shorts and tshirts all day), 45 minutes of kicking back in the warm sun, no wind, and a Miller High Life between us.

Posted

Word to the wise, brought to you by the not-so-wise. There's a cute little blue sign by Alpental that says "this gate may be locked without notice; do not park beyond this point" or some such. Heed it! tongue.gif Myself and Mystic Nacho didn't see the sign and found ourselves locked in upon return. Thanks go out to the nice lady who knew the combination to the lock and happened to still be out there. Ice axes were helpful on the approach and glissade, though the rock itself is completely bare. Wednesday day with predicted bad weather, it was socked in but no rain, and we didn't see a soul on the climb, just one group on the snow and another on the trail. Awesome day out.

  • 1 year later...
Posted
Not really related, but not worth a whole new topic - I met two guys spending Saturday night on Saber Ledge. They had jumars, bivy sacks, even coffee for the morning. That was pretty cool...

bigdrink.gif

 

Boy, that would be a difficult spot for a bivy. I'd be wide awake thinking about how I was just one rope length and a short drive away from opening a tab at the beer garden. Music, drinking, laughter, women.....ah shit, mountain climbing is definitely over rated.

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