The Dikes?

[rbwen]

Not what you're thinking...different forum.

 

Anyone climbed here? Is it worth the three hour drive from Central WA? Red Tail Arete looks like a ton of fun. Any new development there in the last few year?

 

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listArea.php?AreaID=9603

 

Thanks!

 

rbwen

[kurthicks]

Heard from friends who've gone that it is Uber-Chossy. I might check it out this spring, but from what I've seen when I've ice climbed there the rock is basically junk. wear a helmet.

 

definately not worth going to from Wenatchee. Go climb anywhere else within a 3 hour drive.

 

http://marcus.whitman.edu/~pogue/dikesguide.html

[rbwen]

I've been trading emails with Kevin Pogue this morning and he said basically the same thing. Don't make special trip to go there. He also said stay on route with the bolt line and most climbs should be somewhat clean (in other words, wear a helmet). We might make it a road trip this summer and circle on down through the south part of WA.

 

rbwen

[DirtyHarry]

Sounds like a waste of time even if you happen to be driving by. Looks like a pile of shit.

[ClimbingPanther]

*Blatant Plagiarization From Kevin Pogue's Webpage at whitman.edu*

Are you looking for towering near-flawless walls of impeccable stone? Or perhaps, continuous clean crack systems that just beg you to insert your appendages? Well then look somewhere else dammit! These are THE DIKES, for heaven's sake! If you are a rock snob who looks down your nose at "chossy" rock, that is occasionally loose, sometimes mossy or dirty, and contains no continuous crack systems, STOP READING NOW!

 

OK. Now that we've gotten rid of the rock snobs, I can talk to the rest of you adventurous types who realize that well-rounded climbers enjoy a broad spectrum of vertical terrains, not limiting themselves to "ideal" conditions (rock snobs could have never conquered the Eiger Norwand!).

 

Here are a few things that you should know about the climbing at The Dikes. The rock is basalt. However, it is NOT composed of vertical columns separated by continuous vertical crack systems like many other basalt climbing areas (e.g. Frenchman Coulee, The Gorge at Smith Rock, Beacon Rock, etc.). Columns, where present, are horizontal and have a much smaller diameter. As a result, the fractures are very closely spaced and the cliffs are littered with loose chunks that are easily detached. Every route requires extensive loose rock removal and it is sometimes difficult to find rock competent enough to accept a bolt. Despite the considerable amount of time spent preparing new routes, it is still possible (even probable) that you will encounter loose rock. If you get off route (more than 3 ft. to either side of a line connecting the bolts) you will certainly encounter copious amounts of loose rock, dirt, moss, and lichen. Due to the rock fall potential, it has been said that it is more dangerous to belay than to climb at these areas. Helmets (and quick reflexes) are mandatory for the belayer. If possible, belayers should position themselves out of harm's way. Having established many routes at both Frenchman Coulee and at the areas described herein, I can confidently say that the rock at Frenchman coulee is the more "chossy" (more fractured and loose). Rock fall on the popular routes at Frenchman coulee has only diminished in recent years due to the high frequency at which they are climbed. Unfortunately, the "off the beaten path" nature of the climbs in this guide will probably insure that belayers will be dodging rocks for many years to come. At this point, you may be asking yourself "why should I climb at this choss pile?" My answer is that you shouldn't, unless you are prepared to accept the risks. All rock climbing involves taking risks and in the areas described in this guide the risks of being injured by a falling rock are greater than at most other crags. Also, I've told you exactly what it's like, so don't come complaining to me if your noggin gets bonked, or your handhold breaks off, etc, etc.

 

"Somewhere else better time you may have"

 

Oh, and to actually address your real question, yes, I've been there a couple of times. It's nothing to write home about, and you can certainly find better options closer to central WA. However, there are never, ever, ever crowds.

Edited March 28, 2006 by ClimbingPanther