Entiat Icefall Mt. Maude

[ryland_moore]

o.k. so plans have changed and NE Face of Redoubt is out due to conflicting weather reports near Chilliwack. So, the new goals is Entiat Icefall/North Face on Maude. Ice conditions up there? Saw post from the guy who skied it (sick) in July. Anyone been there since? Rockfall? Heard that there may be some AI 3 on the left side of the face. Worth doing? Any recent beta appreciated. Have an awesome long weekend!!!!!!

[Cpt.Caveman]

I say go for it who cares if it's good in someone else's mind. If it's not I bet you'll have a good time talking about the choss or badness. Of course one might expect falling shit in the warm weather. I would go do it but damn I cant do everything all at once.

[erik]

that route is a long hike and kinda boring.....but day just my opinion....even the views suffer slightly.....

 

i would think the n fac emight be a bit melted out...so plan for some choss climbing....and when going from the col(the only way in my opinion) the snow helped wuite a bit as the route is wayyyyy chossy....though easy...just take your time....

 

have fun on it....

 

there sound be decent water in the leroy basin.....

[Alex]

erik, Ryland, dont you approach the ice fall from ice lakes? I have approached n face via Leroy basin, which is what I think erik is referring to, but I dont know if thats a real good approach for ice fall....?

 

good luck, alex

[erik]

okay whatgever alex..

 

have fun ryland.....

 

i still think that shizz is boring!!!!!

[Cpt.Caveman]

Leroy Basin is actually the most travelled and easier way in there. Then just hump over to ice lakes.

 

I walked in up dirt and snow this spring to ice lakes and preferred to go out Leroy Basin (once we knew where it was at anyway). Either way it's very similar until the end.

 

I dont think Mt Maude is superb but it is a kinda cool spot and good to explore that area a little.

 

The rock is major choss.

 

[ 08-29-2002, 10:54 AM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

[ryland_moore]

So, have any of you done it late season? Is the ice typically good this time of year? Erik feels it ain't worth it. Really just looking for some late season ice and steepness, but if it just choss, then rather do some long alpine rock routes. All comments appreciated. Cavey - were going to approach from Leroy, thanks.

[Cpt.Caveman]

I never did it. But it's ice time (late season was first ascent I bet). GO figure.

[erik]

i think for the amount of ice climbing vs approach....it is a rip off....

 

here is a trip report form www.alpinedave.com

 

http://students.washington.edu/dbb/maude.html

[Cpt.Caveman]

Doesnt look like they hit much ice. nice bad rock though

[mattp]

I've done the N. Face in October, hoping to find ice, and there really was none. It was firn, more like firm snow than ice. And the rock traverse to get there was somewhat unpleasant as has been discussed on this board previously. I believe the ice fall is a little more likely to have some ice and it is said to be a slightly more interesting route.

 

I would in some measure agree with Erik in that if you are looking for a spectacular climb, Mount Maude probably isn't a real good choice as far as great climbing-compared-to-amount-of-effort goes. But if you want to see some very beautiful wilderness, the Entiat cirque is about as nice as it gets and Mount Maude is one of the highest peaks in the State and worth climbing if you like that sort of thing. Also, the climb itself will probably be enjoyable.

[mattp]

And take some pictures so you can post them here for us to look at while we're at work.

[ryland_moore]

Looks like we settled on Entiat, and will be picking the hardest line we can do thru the Icefall to make things interesting. Looks like there may be some steeper stuff on the left side. Will post pics on Tuesday or Wednesday. Have a good weekend!Drink a beer or six for me Erik!

[Freeman]

Hey, Ryland

 

I've done both the North Face and the Icefall (altho not reasonly) and in my opinion (and under the conditions that I did them) the Ice Fall was way more fun. I did both climbs from the Ice Lakes approach which means the complete N Face from the bottom (not the traverse). First time for the N Face was in the late 70's in early July - a nice steep snow climb (we didn't rope as I recall). I tried it this time of the yearlast year (again from the bottom) and we couldn't get around the 'shrunds at the bottom. People were still doing the traverse at that time

 

I did the Entiat Ice Fall about this time several years ago and thought it was a great moderate summer alpine ice climb. Mostly 40-50 degree with a few steep steps - you could probably French most of it with one tool but two were nice. The start was funky, we climbed down into the 'shrund and out onto the glacier itself. The ridge to the top is chossy but I don't recommend desending directly to Ice Lakes - there are some pretty unpleasant slabs. Go on to the top and down the normal way.

 

Go do it, I think you'll enjoy it.