Camp Muir--April Conditions and Advice Request

[florida_climber]

I'm planning on climbing Rainier in late June. Since I live in Florida, my biggest conditioning worry between now and then is altitude acclimitization. Turns out I have a business trip to Seattle in late April, and I was thinking it'd be a great idea to take a day, head to the mountain and do the trip up to Camp Muir and back. So, what are the conditions like at that time and what gear will I need? Some other posts on this site range from people doing the trip with no gear to ice axe/crampons. Any advice? Thanks.

[Arc]

Your main concern wont be traction, but postholing through the snow.

Weather is chilly in April.

 

All i can say is......

 

Plan your route out very well, prepare for a bivouac because the weather can turn on you (which it normally does for eastcoasters).

 

Snowshoes (because I presume you dont own a randonee setup in Florida).

 

Trekking poles are a must while postoling or the other.

 

And if ya cant find a partner for the walk up there....throw me a shout, I'll take a run up there with you.

[Norman_Clyde]

Even if you can't get ready for altitude, you can get ready for lots of altitude gain. You're at least halfway ready for a trip to Muir once you can put in 4 to 5 straight hours on a stairmaster while wearing a pack.

[Arc]

Dont forget smoke breaks.

[JayB]

Map, compass, GPS - and the ability to use all three effectively in whiteout conditions - and/or the willingness to bag the outing if conditions deteriorate on the way up. Snow shovel and/or assorted other gear necessary for digging in and surviving a night out. Snowshoes.

 

You could have perfect conditions, and the outing will be nothing more than an incredibly scenic day-hike, or you could be in for a full-blown epic. In April the probability of encountering deep snow and foul weather is pretty high, so I'd err on the side of caution, especially if it's your first time there. One of the Dads from my old scout troop -who had been to Muir a half-dozen times and had all the overnight gear - died along with his nephew on the snowfield last year, so even though it's a casual trip for most people most of the time - be careful.

 

Another option you might consider is posting in the partners forum and hooking up with someoneone - the odds are pretty good that you'll find someone to head up there with.

[florida_climber]

Thanks much--I think I'll explore other training options and wait until June to go up the mountain!

[Lazyboy]

The park service provides a map with compass bearings.

 

Go to this web page and click on "map available with compass bearings" to download it.

 

http://www.nps.gov/mora/trail/bearings.htm

[mattp]

I think the physiologists are united in saying that a single day's excursion to altitude, even just two weeks before your intended climb, will not add to your acclimitization in terms of the body's response to altitude. However, a prior visit will definitely help you get a feel for the mountain and training of any kind will help.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I was just there on Sunday.

 

Lots of soft powder most of the way up. Some portions with a thin, harder crust. We took snowshoes. Skis would have been a lot more pleasant.

 

The day alternated between some sun poking through the clouds, and total whiteout. Nobody went up ahead of us, so there was no boot path going up. On descent our boot path was clear, but only because there was not enough snow and wind to cover up the tracks.

 

There were a lot of people on the lower portions (up to Panorama Point). We saw very few above Pebble Creek.

[Pandora]

Whaddya mean there were no tracks going up?? I was busting my ass breaking trail above 8500 feet in zero visibility . I was happy to be skiing down, but the vertigo was intense. Yesterday was a lot nicer; I got sunburned.

[knelson]

Whaddya mean there were no tracks going up?? ...

 

Do you even make tracks?

[Bug]

Do you live up there?

[Pandora]

 

Do you even make tracks?

 

Why do you think they call me the posthole machine?

 

Do you live up there?

 

Starting in May......

 

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Whaddya mean there were no tracks going up?? I was busting my ass breaking trail above 8500 feet in zero visibility . I was happy to be skiing down, but the vertigo was intense. Yesterday was a lot nicer; I got sunburned.

 

Maybe I just couldn't see them in the fog. :-P

[Nick]

When are you going to be in Seattle? I'll hike up to Muir with you if I have time when you're here. I've been to Muir and back in whiteout conditions more than once. It's just a matter of using map + compass and/or gps to stay on the Muir snowfield route. I was up there last weekend in a whiteout so intense we had trouble keeping our ballance. Very disorienting. You will want snowshoes, complete winter clothing, snow shovel, etc. There is one slope with avalanche potential on the route and there are crevassed glaciers on either side of the route, so you want to be careful, but the Muir snowfield route itself is a straightforward snow hike.

 

As for altitude, it is worth getting in good cardiovascular shape to climb Rainier, but most of us locals live at sea level, so we are no more acclimatized than you are in Florida. The effects of altitude will not be as uncomfortable if you take three days (instead of one or two) to climb Rainier. Camp at 9000 or so the first night, then at 11,000 feet or so the second night, then head for the summit at midnight or so. Climb in good weather. Will you be climbing with a guided group in June? Or some other group with some glacier mountaineering experience?

[iluka]

One day of climbing several months in advance will have zero effect on acclimatization for a climb in June but would have the benefit of giving you the sense of what it feels like to do physical work -- particularly with a heavy pack on -- at altitude. That is a whole different ballgame for those not used to it. The opportunity to practice some navigation skills with the experienced folks offering their help in this forum would also be invaluable in getting prepared.