jport Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 Time to escape the winter weather in Portland! I'm heading to California in two weeks for some early-season trad. climbing. Our plan is to climb at Pinnacle Nat. Monument for a few days then drive to Yosemite N.P. and spend three days in the Valley. I'm helping lead a group of enthusiastic teenagers with limited climbing experience and would like to get them on some classic multi-pitch routes in Yosemite. We are going to limit our scope to climbs in the 5.6-5.9 range. So far my list includes: Nutcracker, After Seven, The Grack, and Munginella. Any other suggestions or routes that shouldn't be missed. Let's not even discuss the weather... I have my fingers crossed that conditions will warm up a bit in the Valley. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 central pillar of DOPE, er frenzy is awesome (and quite reasonable for the grade)!! SnakeHike, er dike, makes for a fun (and long with the hike) day at 5.7 (probably a lot of snow up there though) Â Also, for cragging go to Reeds...lotta fun stuff there...and ElCap has some good single pitch climbing on it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrythellama Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 jport  i would say that all those climbs are not really suited for a large group of beginners. small ledges, natural anchors and long lines will affect yours and everyones elses enjoyment of the day.  after the 1st belay ledge on nutcracker they get smaller and smaller...more then 2-3 people makes them awkward and potentially dangerous from crowding.  have fun...we are getting pounded by the snow for the next week or so.  muginella has considerable rockfall potential from climbers and hikers above.  the grack is located on glacier point apron. spring is a bad time to be on the apron as spring melt increases extreme rockfall hazard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 ahhh...i didn't catch the "group" deal!! Good catch furry one! Â Cragging is probably the way to go then...reeds is warm, so is cookie (not much easy stuff there though), el cap has some great stuff for screwing around on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jport Posted March 14, 2006 Author Share Posted March 14, 2006 Thanks for the cautionary notes. I should have noted that our "teams" will probably be no more than 3 people on each route. That considered, I'd like to find areas that offer more than one good multi-pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 3 beginners on a multipitch is a "clusterfuck"...have many/any of them climbed in yos before??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jport Posted March 14, 2006 Author Share Posted March 14, 2006 There will be a total of six students and four adults. Most of the students' experience comes from climbing at Smith Rock. This will be their first time in the Valley. This is an opportunity for them to see/study famous routes, experience Yosemite rock, and get more excited about climbing. Obviously, we are going to be very safety-conscious. We also have great respect for the tradition and environment of Yosemite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foraker Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 If you try to take a group like that up Nutcracker, all with limited experience, you're just going to piss off a lot of people. It's a popular climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 smith DNE yosemite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 On the other hand, Yos probly won't be too crowded this time of year. Â But with a total of 10 peeps (4 "leaders") you could just have 4 rope teams, one with three. Problem solved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jport Posted March 14, 2006 Author Share Posted March 14, 2006 Obviously Smith is very different than Yosemite. Our intention is not to crowd/monopolize routes. The original purpose of my post was to find some classic multi-pitch routes. If we can find an area that has several good routes, in close proximity, that would be a bonus. Back to the subject: Does anyone have other route recommendations? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 Whatever your intention may be beginners and multipitch moderate yosemite classics = crowding. They are already popular. I'd also wonder why you are taking them to Pinnacles - poorly protected crap rock isn't beginner friendly either. Thought about Joshua tree? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrythellama Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 right on cj001f....pinnacles is choss covered in poison oak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 I'd stay away from the Apron. Â Check online conditions and if the conditions are right consider Lover's Leap. Haystack 5.8 , Bear's Reach 5.7, East Wall 5.6, Corregation Corner 5.7, Surrealistic Pillar 5.7 will beat just about anything in Yosemite at the same rating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrythellama Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 the leap is buried and getting more buried...like i said we ha ve had feets of snow over night and more in the forcast till the weekend. Â but the leap is awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 Ya but 3 weeks of sun can make a big difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrythellama Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 too bad the leap faces north, not much sun till you get a ways up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colt45 Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 Base of el cap may not be a good idea due to icefall danger from the summit. Also yosemite really is not the best beginner area as there are very few easier climbs that are high quality (and the few that do exist are extremely crowded). The Leap is a much, much better destination in this regard. But if yosemite is where you want to go, check out the Supertopo guidebook. A few good moderate yose cragging areas include sunnyside bench, bishop's terrace, knob hill, and camp 4 wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 Go to Red Rocks. Better locale for what you're after, IMO. Â But if you are goin to the ditch: Â Braille Book, and while you're up there the Reg Route on Higher Spire. The approach is tame, about an hour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrythellama Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 i would love to see a group of noobs on the braille book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 If they weren't above you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carolyn Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 Braille Book, and while you're up there the Reg Route on Higher Spire. The approach is tame, about an hour. ... Oh My! Hows about Moby Dick while your at it?!  Ive only been to Yos once. Braille Book was great (except I didnt like the approach). however, I wouldnt recommend it in your circumstances. Just take them craggin'.  Church Bowl has some decent climbs. WIth a group that size you could probably spend the day there. I remember enjoying Church Bowl Lieback quite a bit. I think there is a 5.4 and a handful of 5.8's. If you wanna punish someone, I think Church Bowl chimney might be the way to go  Next to camp 4 there were some short climbs which would be a good intro. Heck, if you want to get them on a classic, bring some bouldering pads and let them give midnight lightning a try.  I dont know your group, their experience, their goals, etc. If they just want to climb and see yosemite, then does it matter if you get on the classics? There are zillions of other climbs out there which they could enjoy. And remember, BIG difference in ratings compared to smith (in my opinion anyway). So, they might get tired out pretty quick. Heck, maybe even a nice hike would be enjoyable. Its gorgeous out there!!!!!  Hope you have good weather and fun times!  -c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 yeah...see...listen to the young lady...i said to go craggin on the base of ElCap!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 i'd recommend bishop's terrace as good 2 pitch climb. not many people do the second pitch....but it takes you to the terrace[hence the route name]. cool place to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 yah...that was good... Â also, again, go to Reeds...classics that should be sunny... Â oh man, i'm jonesing for the valley now...too bad i'm all fucked up physically... Â Hey, Mark, how's it going??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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