Training climbing endurance?

[chucK]

So what're the theories on training for climbing endurance? Seems like I hear different things.

 

Doing sets of easy laps until failure seems like a no-brainer, but I've also heard that getting pumped too quickly while training is counterproductive, and that you should avoid the pump as long a possible.

 

Anybody got scientifically-validated, currently-accepted, guidelines for what kind of training at the UW Rock is going to help me last longer on some steep Index climb?

 

If not, then what works for you?

[sexual_chocolate]

what kind of training at the UW Rock is going to help me last longer on some steep Index climb?

 

Oh what steep index climbing do you allude to in its world of slab?

 

 

Scientifically validated UW rock workout:

 

Location: on the overhanging wall above the slab on the parking lot side.

 

Workout: Start on the low left corner on the large two rocks; climb the traverse up and right to the highest rock and touch the metal bolt (do not grab the top of the wall; use only rocks) and then down-climb back to the start holds with both hands. Do not step off, but climb again, and see how many laps you can do, with up and down being one lap. I think 14 is the record, and a little over 4 with no rocks for feet, just texture.

 

This was my favorite workout there, giving a silly pump.

[chucK]

When you were climbing to failure on that circuit did you ever pop off and clunk yer noggin on the slab? Or perhaps land on a kid?

 

So is just climbing to pump and perhaps pushing through as long as possible the basic premise then?

 

Definitely simple, I just thought there might be another school of thought.

 

And by "steep", for me, steep is vertical.

[sexual_chocolate]

So is just climbing to pump and perhaps pushing through as long as possible the basic premise then?

 

 

not the basic premise, but part of it.

 

I actually got quite into this routine, and broke it down into sets, where only on certain sets was I reaching failure. The idea was that the volume of climbing at a fairly hard level would be increased by breaking it into sets, as opposed to just going til failure every time.

 

So I would do maybe 2 3 lap sets, then 2 5 lap sets, 1 7 lap, then 2*5 and 2*3 (obviously lap counts will be tailored for individual needs; it might be 1 lap three times at first). Also rest between sets is implied.

 

I think if one took this approach with any set of moves that require one to work at a level perhaps a number grade or two below their max and really applied themselves for a few weeks at minimum, they would see results.

[Johnny_Tuff]

So what're the theories on training for climbing endurance? Seems like I hear different things.

 

Doing sets of easy laps until failure seems like a no-brainer, but I've also heard that getting pumped too quickly while training is counterproductive, and that you should avoid the pump as long a possible.

 

Anybody got scientifically-validated, currently-accepted, guidelines for what kind of training at the UW Rock is going to help me last longer on some steep Index climb?

 

If not, then what works for you?

 

I would say that avoiding the pump would not necessarily be the best goal (have you ever climbed at your limit and not gotten pumped?), but rather learning to climb through and deal with the pump. I think this is immensely valuable, and just as trainable as working lockoffs or crimping or anything else. Gitcher money's worth!

[archenemy]

Pushups

[Drederek]

Its easy to defeat the pump by improving your vascularity. Try lifting weights. It'll relieve that sore neck as well.

[catbirdseat]

So people say that Sexy Cocao likes carrying on conversations with himself or putting words in other people's mouths. Is that so?

Why yes, I think it is true.

[RuMR]

listen, cbs...the sexy chocolate hershey pusher knows quite a bit about training...if you took some of his advice, you might find things like outerspace are not 5.10

 

[catbirdseat]

Doubtless, I should take more of his advice.