Prusik S Face chimneys question

[DavidW]

Duane Constantino and I tried to do the Beckey Route in a day back in 1976. We took one 9 mil rope, six hexes and 8 stoppers. We approaced via aasgard pass and stomped over to the route. I dont remember the chimney's being very serious at all. We probably would have made it out in one push but after descending to Colchuck Lake we found a band of derelicts camping. They had guns, burgers, cole-slaw and several half gallons of Southern Comfort, not to mention a foot and half wide solid silver serving platter to roll their chosen smoking materials. Such was the hour that they impressed upon us the folly of passing up such a smorgasbord and our one-day ascent vanished without a second thought!

[mtngrrrl]

No way! Prussick was FANTASTIC!! I loved the rock! I'm craaaaaaavin' more! The top pitch ruled. Nice dihedral, nicer flake, puff and grunt chimney. Yeah baby.

 

The bugs sucked, and, well SUCKED! It wasn't much of a reward to get bitten by the bastards on the summit, however the view was nice.

 

BTW, your summit cannister is there, but no register.

[texplorer]

I have done both epinepherine and the stanely/burger route in the last 4 months. The chimneys on epi seemed kind of wide in places and definetely a little runout. The one chimney on the south face is protectable the entire way. You can stick in gear at any point on the chimney. The climbing itself is different than the epi chimneys in that it is tighter and more of a thrutch. I found it quite enjoyable and secure but just slow going for a bit. It is not a death chimney but you might find yourself wishing you had a little extra horsecock. It is a great pitch as well as the pitch behind the chockstone and the last pitch. I would call the last pitch 5.9+ to 5.10. I thought the last pitch was harder to protect than the chimney. Oh but you'll still die in the chimneys!