111 Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 (freedom of the hills, not that religious shit) for roped glacier travel a team can tie overhand knots periodically along the rope to help arrest a crevasse fall. Theoretically the rope cuts into the crevasse lip upon falling and catches on one of the knots, helping the partner/team arrest the fall. Does anyone have any input on this technique worked/didnt, pain in the ass, not worth the trouble? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bergretter Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 Great theory, the knots assisting in fall arresting and all, this I have not proven. What I have found is that when you decide to change over from stopping the fall to setting up a haul system, say a z-pulley setup, then the knots create havok! I'm sure there is a time where the knots provide more benefit than hinderance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason_Martin Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 This system works very well...however, I've found that butterfly knots work much better than overhand knots. Â If you practice your crevasse rescue techniques, passing the knot through the system is not that big a deal. Where there is a problem sometimes is in the knot cutting deeply into the lip of the crevasse. Sometimes the knot entrenches itself so deeply that it is incredibly difficult to pull out of the lip. I've created a 9 to 1 and even a 12 to 1 pulley system to fix this. Â On a two man team, I usually put a few knots in the rope between myself and my partner. I'd rather have to deal with the problems that the knots cause following a crevasse fall than the problems caused by being at the bottom of a crevasse. Â Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 When the knots become an issue, it is time to use those rescue coils and drop another line down to prussik or haul with. This new line should be on a mega prepared lip. No overhang or rope cutting in. padding too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dechristo Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 ...for roped glacier travel a team can tie overhand knots periodically along the rope to help arrest a crevasse fall. Â Tie-in aluminum ladders; very effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted March 8, 2006 Author Share Posted March 8, 2006 Â Tie-in aluminum ladders; very effective. Â aluminum ladders? sarcastic comment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 ive done this before it seems like it would help in 2 person rope teams. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted March 9, 2006 Author Share Posted March 9, 2006 Anyone have info (1st/2nd hand) on if it has actually worked? Hypothetically it is a great idea, but does it truly work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 I think Jason commented that it works quite well but uses butterfly knots instead. I've been taught that it is a good precaution for 2 person teams and put knots in, but haven't have the bad fortune to fall while roped up with just one other person so I don't know if it helps. Â I suppose you could get together with some friends and test out various combinations while practicing self arrest and crevasse rescue. Let us know what you find out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Couloir Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 Another option is to hang small boat anchors every 24 inches. They act as "insta-flukes" in case someones drops in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dechristo Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 boat anchors and aluminum ladders together are bomber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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