The Bible says...

[111]

(freedom of the hills, not that religious shit) for roped glacier travel a team can tie overhand knots periodically along the rope to help arrest a crevasse fall. Theoretically the rope cuts into the crevasse lip upon falling and catches on one of the knots, helping the partner/team arrest the fall. Does anyone have any input on this technique worked/didnt, pain in the ass, not worth the trouble?

[Bergretter]

Great theory, the knots assisting in fall arresting and all, this I have not proven. What I have found is that when you decide to change over from stopping the fall to setting up a haul system, say a z-pulley setup, then the knots create havok! I'm sure there is a time where the knots provide more benefit than hinderance?

[Jason_Martin]

This system works very well...however, I've found that butterfly knots work much better than overhand knots.

 

If you practice your crevasse rescue techniques, passing the knot through the system is not that big a deal. Where there is a problem sometimes is in the knot cutting deeply into the lip of the crevasse. Sometimes the knot entrenches itself so deeply that it is incredibly difficult to pull out of the lip. I've created a 9 to 1 and even a 12 to 1 pulley system to fix this.

 

On a two man team, I usually put a few knots in the rope between myself and my partner. I'd rather have to deal with the problems that the knots cause following a crevasse fall than the problems caused by being at the bottom of a crevasse.

 

Jason

[genepires]

When the knots become an issue, it is time to use those rescue coils and drop another line down to prussik or haul with. This new line should be on a mega prepared lip. No overhang or rope cutting in. padding too.

[Dechristo]

...for roped glacier travel a team can tie overhand knots periodically along the rope to help arrest a crevasse fall.

 

Tie-in aluminum ladders; very effective.

[111]

 

Tie-in aluminum ladders; very effective.

 

aluminum ladders? sarcastic comment?

[corvallisclimb]

ive done this before it seems like it would help in 2 person rope teams.

 

[111]

Anyone have info (1st/2nd hand) on if it has actually worked? Hypothetically it is a great idea, but does it truly work?

[chelle]

I think Jason commented that it works quite well but uses butterfly knots instead. I've been taught that it is a good precaution for 2 person teams and put knots in, but haven't have the bad fortune to fall while roped up with just one other person so I don't know if it helps.

 

I suppose you could get together with some friends and test out various combinations while practicing self arrest and crevasse rescue. Let us know what you find out.

[Couloir]

Another option is to hang small boat anchors every 24 inches. They act as "insta-flukes" in case someones drops in.

[Dechristo]

boat anchors and aluminum ladders together are bomber.