Alpine_Tom Posted June 4, 2002 Posted June 4, 2002 June 3. Headed up there Monday (I’d arranged for the day off for a Sun-Mon Rainier climb, which fell though.) The parking lot was empty when I arrived. Left the lot at about 7:45, got to the lake in about two hours, where I hung out for a snack and to enjoy the view. The trail is almost completely snow-free, but is really sloppy the last half mile or so. Colchuck glacier was in perfect condition; I could probably have made it up without crampons, but felt more secure having them. Got to the saddle around 12:45, and was on the summit half an hour later. There was a lot of annoying punching through the snow around the rocks up there (as there was around the west side of the lake) but otherwise no difficulties. The summit book, tragically, was filled about five years ago (the entries go from 1995 to 1997; I thought the mounties were supposed to maintain these things!) On nifty surprise; below the summit, looking over at Stuart, you can see Colchuck Balanced Rock from behind. I sure wish I understood the geologic forces that stuck that rock up on that hill. I’d planned to descend to the col and traverse Dragontail as well, descending Aasgard pass, but bagged it, wanting to get home before midnight. Conditions looked good for it, thought; there was a clear set of footsteps heading up the couloir up the back side; beyond that it seems to be a longish scramble. The descent, of course, is one of the exceptional Cascade glissades.It’s steep enough that I was able to glissade from the col to the lake (nearly half a vertical mile!) except for the flat spot 2/3 of the way down. Ran into a couple of guys camped by the lake, planning on doing the Dragontail traverse Tuesday. Hope the weather held for them. One other couple, out for a day hike up to the lake, apparently (no packs) and that was all the people I saw. Another empty crowded climb. Didn’t take or need snowshoes (except I was wishing I had them up among the rocks at the summit!) Back to the car by 5:30 or so for that long boring drive back down HW 2. Quote
Lambone Posted June 4, 2002 Posted June 4, 2002 Right on Tom! We were up there on Sunday. That boot pack up the glacier sure was nice eh. Like a giant outdoor stair climber. My fiance smoked me on it cause she trains on those things during the week. We summited at 8:30 and came down around 9:00. The Glacier was still too firm to glisade safely Great spot! It was our first time up there. Will be back for Dragontail! Quote
kevin Posted June 4, 2002 Posted June 4, 2002 Hey Lambone so that was you I saw sunday. I was bivyed at the col. We waited about an hour after you started down for the snow to soften a bit and had a killer glissade all the way down. Quote
fredrogers Posted June 4, 2002 Posted June 4, 2002 Any of you happen to look at the N. Buttress Coulior on Colchuck? I know the NE Buttress is out for the year, but am thinking about heading back for a re-match if the weather holds. Cheers. Fred Quote
Lambone Posted June 4, 2002 Posted June 4, 2002 I am not sure which one the NE Couloir is, but the prominant one on the right looks best. Colchuck The couloirs still have lots of snow, and most have slid out recently. But there was no avalanche activity over the weekend. I could see a boot track heading to the larger couloir on the right (North) that leads to the NE ridge. Not sure which one is which. The one on the left (which I believe is the one ScottP and friends wrote about earlier looked threatened by cornices. Chrysten and I were tempted to go up the one on the right, but didn't feel confident about the ridge without rock gear. We heard loud rockfall at around 8:30, but couldn't see it. I'd say go for it, but start way early! Have fun! Let me know if you have more questions. Quote
fredrogers Posted June 4, 2002 Posted June 4, 2002 Originally posted by Lambone: [QB]I am not sure which one the NE Couloir is, but the prominant one on the right looks best. Colchuck It's the one on the right. Be nice if there was stil as much snow in it! We'd be doing it in a day, so hopefully we can get there at the crack of dawn. Thanks for the info. Quote
Lambone Posted June 4, 2002 Posted June 4, 2002 Ok Yeah, right. The North Butress, not Northeast... It looked great. From the summit it didn't look as if there was much snow on the ridge. Go for it! Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 4, 2002 Posted June 4, 2002 I think Juan has the most ascents of that NB Couloir than anyone I know. I have been up it once. Pretty cool I suppose. Oh yeah is this the Tom I met in Lworth a few weeks ago? [ 06-04-2002, 02:54 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote
kevin Posted June 5, 2002 Posted June 5, 2002 Use caution in any of the couloirs on colchuck. I took about an hour lunch break on the moraine (granted it was mid day by that time) and watched about five or six small avalanches come down various couloirs and gullies on colchuck. Even early in the day, we could hear pretty regular rock/ice falling off both dragontail and colchuck. Otherwise the snow looked good in the north buttress couloir. There is somewhat of a trench worn right down the middle from regular releases. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 5, 2002 Posted June 5, 2002 Yeah those things are always prone to slide. Perfect angle for it. I beleive the best season to climb them is December to early May... Spindrift Sandwich Quote
Lambone Posted June 5, 2002 Posted June 5, 2002 Totaly, when I mentioned an early start, I was thinking be up to the Butress by sunrise, before the sun comes over Balanced Rock and hits the couloir. At least thats how I'd do it... Quote
Lambone Posted June 5, 2002 Posted June 5, 2002 BTW- The first ascent of N. But. Coulior was done in July. Quote
Lambone Posted June 5, 2002 Posted June 5, 2002 Yup, that was Chrysten and I. Nice chattin with you guys, killer bivi site! We tried the but glisade and it just hurt to much... Shoulda hung out and waited with you guys, but we had to get back in town. Hope to see ya out again sometime! Quote
Juan Posted June 5, 2002 Posted June 5, 2002 Fred: E-mail me directly at jsharp@windermere.com or call (425) 765-7747 for recent beta on Colchuck NBC. Doug Walker and I did it as a day climb the Sun. of this past Memorial Day weekend, and I did it by myself as a day climb in 2000. Cool route; not dangerous. John Sharp Quote
Lambone Posted June 5, 2002 Posted June 5, 2002 Quick question John... What kind of rock gear is needed to protect the upper ridge section? I assume a basic set of nuts and hexes...mostly easy 5th class right? Oh, also...I should have listened to your advise about not needing snowshoes last weekend! Cheers Quote
Alpine_Tom Posted June 5, 2002 Author Posted June 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I think Juan has the most ascents of that NB Couloir than anyone I know. I have been up it once. Pretty cool I suppose. Oh yeah is this the Tom I met in Lworth a few weeks ago? Nope, not me. I'm terrified of rock, just ask Alex. Quote
Juan Posted June 5, 2002 Posted June 5, 2002 No rock pro needed on the upper snow face after topping out on the NBC. If you were to actually climb the N. Butt, however, that would be a rock climb. I don't think many people bother to do the N. Butt itself, and I'm not sure of the difficulty. There are short rock steps on the NBC route (one in the couloir, and a few on the face), but these can be avoided if you want and you don't, at this time, need rock pro. Take crampons (which you may not need) and a regular axe and a shorty for double plunging. It makes life easier. The terrain is consistent 45-50 degree snow. Have fun, John Quote
dr._jay Posted June 7, 2002 Posted June 7, 2002 we did the NBC yesterday and the route is in great shape. the snow was firm on the approach for fast travel and minimal postholing and the couloir was way solid steep snow and a little ice for good measure. crampons are definitley needed but the ice tool sticks were bomber. we brought a rope but carried it the whole way, and my partner had never even swung an ice tool before. there's a little meandering at the top to get to the summit but we never needed to rope up. we travelled at a pretty relaxed pace with plenty of breaks and it was about a 12 hour car to car day. there was plenty of weather all around but it never got too bad, and we never saw another person above the lake all day--gotta love climbing during the week! Quote
highclimb Posted June 8, 2002 Posted June 8, 2002 nice work! its summer for me now and that means lots of climbing during the week! Quote
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