Gapers climb Triple Couloirs

[rayborbon]

Hello,We drove a snowmobile in and snowhoed in saturday. Met Wayne and Colin at the lake. Saw Mike Adamson as well..

Even though Veggie and I had never climbed together we figured our booze drinkin asses could climb this after Colin soloed it. A definitely notable solo but not all technical as of today.

Veggie brought the kind and some Bourbon whiskey for our evening dinner which we shared with our neighbors.

The next morning we got up and soloed Hidden Couloir. We were behind 2 homies from Wenatchee. Cool bros We climbed it. It's in fine shape. You just dont get much pro. I think one piece each pitch. Lots of spindrift the whole time. My favorite spots ice runnels and exit to last couloir. After watching Jeff Lowe's ice video at Marmot I knew I was ready to pull the two rock\mixed moves on lead

If I was to do it again my rack would be 3 knife blades, 2 lost arrows, 1 baby angle, 7 draws with long slings, one 9 mil rope, one metolius blue tcu, and one metolius green cam, one stubby ice screw, and picket (optional).

Go get it while its in good. Road is closed. Can ski, we snowmobiled but it's melting fast so I dont recommend that now. Lots of pavement..

[ 03-31-2002: Message edited by: rayborbon ]

[mvs]

Nice job Ray. That was a cool gapewad TR.

[rayborbon]

Your turn next

[wayne]

Thank you for sharing

-your neighbors

[wayne]

Hey Ray how where the winds up high? I remmember walking downhill and parallel to the slope.weird

[rayborbon]

Hello Wayne,

I was getting pushed around pretty good at Asgaard pass. Made more of an alpine feel

[verticalturtle]

so was it mostly just snow?I would like to do it again if it is ice.

Better question for Ray or others since you were just there. There is a mixed route that connects the small snowfields to the right of Serpentine. Did you happen to scope it, and did it look doable this year.

vt

Umm just say colin's post I guess it's in.

[ 04-01-2002: Message edited by: verticalturtle ]

[rayborbon]

It's in shape.

[highclimb]

hey ray,

what did wayne and colin end up doing?

Aidan

[rayborbon]

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=000119

[erik]

the fat beer guzzler sends again!!!!!!

i'll but ya the next round!!!!

[Smoker]

Nice work, gapers.

Ya stole one away from the weather!

Smoker

[rayborbon]

Some good skiing would be the Hidden Couloir (watch out on exit) and the south side of Dragontial (descent route). Glacier on Colchuck looked even better for skiing.

[wayne]

What Wayne and Colin did:

We got 1 pitch up attempting TC direct. Very difficult on the easy looking stuff bailed off a bollard . If the thing touched down it would be sweet WI5-6!M8 if not. We ended up free soloeing North Face Direct 2200' AI3 sustained and a 5.7 Mixed moss and rock finish into TC. 2 1/2 hours up

[mikeadam]

That was my posthole track you probably admired and got a good laugh at on the way down. My favorite is when you posthole on a steep section and then your pack drives you face first into the snow. Remove pack, try not to fall face first down hill repeat until the next time...quite the tell tale snail trail I'm sure...NICE to finally meet Colin and see Wayne again. We should have camped with the rest of the crew. Next time.

I did not have one moment of absolute clarity the whole trip although my partner did. He can probably tell you more about it. It was sunny I remember that.

[ 04-01-2002: Message edited by: mikeadam ]

[rayborbon]

Yes you guys must have suffered post holing out. Damn that must have sucked bad