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Despite my best efforts both on and offline, I've never been able to get the complete list of all the peaks the Ptarmigans climbed on the first Ptarmigan Traverse and which were first ascents, etc. Can anybody help me out? Lowell maybe???

 

TIA

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Posted

 

From Nelson's Vol II, p. 130:

 

"The first ascent (of Johannesberg) was made by the famed Ptarmigan Traverse party, one of the greatest mountaineering outings ever made in the Cascades...Starting at Cascade Pass, they traversed under the Triplets and Cascade Peak into the steep C-J Colouir, which leads to the C-J Col. From there, the Ptarmigans climbed the East Ridge of J-berg to the top, and then back to the col, from which they traversed the South Side of the Triplets and Mixup Peak back to Gunsight Notch and eventually back to Cascade Pass. (The next day, these guys went on to do Sahale Peak, Boston, and the North Face of Buckner). There may be no more impressive single mountaineering feat than what this small group accomplished on that trip." Nelson explains that the entire trip took 13 days, back in 1938.

 

More info here:

 

http://www.alpenglow.org/climbing/ptarmigan-1953/index.html

 

From there, exactly what order they do the rest of the traverse is not clear to me...

Posted

There is an excellent story by Harvey Manning. in the Mountaineer. I forget the year. I think its called The Ptarmigans and their P Trips. All the gorey details are there.

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