[TR] Winter Cragging at The Bend- 1/22/2006

[MCash]

Climb: Winter Cragging at The Bend-

 

Date of Climb: 1/22/2006

 

Trip Report:

My friend Bruce and I arrived in Tieton River Canyon at about 9:00 on Sunday morning to the sight of about 6" of snow on the ground and 32 degree temps. No worries, we were equipped with chemical hand warmers. We hiked up to the base of the wall and found dry rock on the left side. I warmed up on a nice 5.8ish handcrack which had some great jambs. My hands got a little cold, but it wasn't bad at all.

 

Bruce following it...

 

 

We noticed a nice looking offwidth next door that looked pretty clean. Neither of us had brought big enough gear for it, so we set up a TR. It was pretty good, maybe 5.8. Maybe we can find a harder one.

 

We wanted to lead some of the long stellar lines in the middle of the wall, but the first pitch and intermediate ledge was covered in snow and ice. We decided to hike up to the top and run some laps on TR of some of our favorite cracks. By this time it had warmed up to the low forties and was pretty comfortable.

 

We lowered down the second pitch of Ed's Jamb and ran a lap on that. This pitch is really easy, but super fun with 150 feet of sustained 5.7 and 5.8 handjambing goodness.

 

Bruce loving it...

 

 

After that we ran a lap on a 5.9 hand and fingercrack just right of MX. This pitch is pretty fun, about 130 feet high with great jambs.

 

Next up was MX which is an awesome pitch! This crack has about 130 feet of sustained 5.10A third knuckle locking fingerjambs. It is so dang good, the kind that just makes you grin from ear to ear when you're done.

 

Bruce enjoying it...

 

 

We noticed this really cool looking offwidth, one crack to the left of the second pitch of MX that looked like a lot of fun. Not sure why it isn't in the guidebook, but it was really dang fun. Quite physical, but no move was really hard. I would rate it "Tieton 5.9". This is a great crack to practice Levitation on as it is perfect locker knees width.

 

Looking up the wideness...

 

 

That made us pretty tired so we decided on one last crack before heading out. We set up "The Reckoning", just right of Pure Joy. There was a post on here a little while ago where someone claimed this was actually 10D, not B. Well, I'd agree. It is steep, pumpy, and thin. We were both pretty worked after that so we headed home.

 

Didn't exactly get any hard leads in, but it was a nice day out and a good workout. On the way home we listened to the game on the radio. Go Hawks!

 

Gear Notes:

Rack to 4"

Should have brought the OW gear.

 

Approach Notes:

Snow on trail.

[Toast]

RIGHT ON!! I'd a thought your finger's would've ended up numb popsicles though.

[selkirk]

RIGHT ON!! I'd a thought your finger's would've ended up numb popsicles though.

 

yes but that makes fingerlocks much more palateable!

[Coldfinger]

Finally a real Tieton TR..

 

I've read far too many "I went and it was real cool and I saw a snake and camped in a car" reports that all made me wanna puke!

[JayB]

Hey Martin:

 

Great TR - made me homesick in a big way.

 

I think the Bend has the best trad-cragging in the state, but hopefully the word won't get out. That rock - nothing sweeter than dropping a hex or a nut into one of those constrictions when you are getting pumped out.

 

FWIW I thought that "The Reckoning" was a bit more sustained but a bit easier than "Sugar Kicks," but after doing "The Reckoning" as a warm-up for Pure Joy towards the tail end of our days there, I always figured I was too pumped for the lead and either headed over to Ed's Jam or headed home. Sounds like I should have just sacked it up and hopped on Pure Joy instead. I do remember thinking that Introductory Offer seemed pretty damned stiff for a 5.9.

[MCash]

Thanks Jay. Pure Joy feels easier than Reckoning to me and both are really nice. I agree with you about The Bend, a really great selection of cracks to climb. Even the 1 star routes like Tiers are good.

[andyf]

Just for the sake of accuracy, it's "Reckoning," not "The Reckoning." IMO, Reckoning is more like .10a, and even at that mostly because it's sustained. I think Pure Joy has more difficult, technical moves.

 

Many of those cracks may seem more or less difficult depending on finger/hand size. My hands fit Introductory Offer perfectly and it feels like 5.8!

[Coldfinger]

IMO, Reckoning is more like .10a, and even at that mostly because it's sustained. I think Pure Joy has more difficult, technical moves.

 

Spoken like a true Tieton sandbagger!