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Winter Alpine routes near Salt Lake City??

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Hey, guys,


I have a pal that lives there; the plan was to go there next weekend, visit, and do some ice. Then, yesterday, my other pal talked to the Black Diamond rep in SLC, and he said that it warmed there, and all the ice is gone.


I know my friend said there's a premier alpine route there; from what I remember, it's in a cirque, and it sounded reasonably hard. Next time I talk to him, I'll ask him, and I'll post it here.

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worthwhile winter alpine/mixed rigs in the wasatch that doesnt require super-long ski tour approaches to get to (i.e., pfiefferhorn, lone peak, nebo, (most of)timpanogos, et al) or deal with al the hulabaloo found at the local ice rigs.


bring a rock and ice rack. these arent "sporto" routes.


Big Cottonwood Canyon

Scottish Gully WI3 M5 100m (can go higher on frozen turf) thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif

Lunar Gully WI? M? (climbers left of Scottish Gully) thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif


approach time: approx 5 minutes


NE Face of Storm Mountain III? WI3-ish M? 1000ft.? thumbs_up.gif

(good melt-freeze ice or snow covered steeep slabs)


approach time: approx 15 minutes (scary avi gulch)


Little Cottonwood Canyon


A Day In Scotland "5.9 A1" thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif

gully left of A Day... WI3- ish 5.easy thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif


approach time: approx 30 minutes


South Ridge of Mount Superior 5.easy WI3 1000+ ft

(can rock/snow scramble around ice steps)

thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif (great exposure)


approach time: cross the road from Snowbird parking


Perla's Ridge 5.8 WI?



Mount Olympus

this is the slab of rock you stare at from your downtown room w/a view, or the slab of rock that towers over the REI (SLC) parking lot.


North Chimneys (any variation up top)

WI2+ ish, M4+/- ish, 5.easyish, steeeep snowish

(popular exum guide route)



approach time: approx 30 minutes


American Fork


Haebus Corpus WI5 M5 5.8+/-

starts at the top of the Timpanogas Cave (literally)



approach time: ~45 minutes. hiked the Timp Cave walkway.


Mount Timpanogos

There is a very high avalanche danger on the approaches


Hidden Lake WI4+ ~400ft then mountaineer up to the summit ridge


approach time: ~1.5 hrs on snowshoes.


East Face of Roberts Horn

WI5- ? M6ish? Steeep snow ~1600ft

(look for the ice on the lookers left of the east face)



approach time: ~45 minutes on snowshoes.




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thanks alot. Thats what I was looking for. May be looking at moving there in the near (maybe) future.

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Alta... Snowbird... I hear they are one day routes... If you do it right you can go up and down them about 15 times a day and barely break a sweat!!! Great views too! Sorry... I just can't wait till your shreading on the skis!

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any recommendations for easy-moderate, 1-2 day solo type alpine routes in this same area?

not knowing your ability and your definition of easy-moderate winter alpine, a general answer to the question would still be, not really.

but, if your willing to include a ski tour approach, i would highly recommend the north ridge or any line of weakness on the NE or NW faces of the pfiefferhorn.




i would also recommend for the soloist the South Ridge of Mt. Superior and a winter route called Super Slabs (obivious north facing slabs as you start up LCC) which offers up to 600? feet of WI2-WI3 with option of heading higher into mixed terrain (descent: walk-off to climbers right of slabs).


NYC007 (& Wazzu & chriz)

PM me if you want to know whats in/out, no-crowd locales, the goods.

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