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Panos

Join for Rainier climb in Jan.

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Giblartar ledges;

I was told this is the safest provided one knows

the way and temperature is well below freezing.

Panos.

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Yea pay special attention to Item #1 on that web page.

"Choose a flexible schedule and when the weather breaks, go for it. Because of the fickle winter weather, scheduling a climb of Rainier to coincide with decent conditions is the major challenge. I suggest a fluid approach to scheduling the climb. Historically, every year from late January through mid-February, a high-pressure ridge builds across the region, thwarting the usual marine frontal systems. Gather your climbing companions and choose a ñweather windowî several weeks long. Alert employers (or employees) well ahead of time that you will need to take off suddenly, and then keep an eye on the weather. When the forecast looks great, sunny for 3 or 4 days in a row, go for it. "

 

Chances are that the weather will suck on 19-22 of Jan. And if the weather does not suck then the avalanche conditons will be high. You thread title should be "Join for Rainier climb sometime in Jan-Feb. ?

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I couldn't find anything on Rainier on that site. But I am interested in a Gibraltar ledges climb. Three is a good number in my opinion. I would be up for getting a plan together and talking about style, speed, gear, etc.

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I am interested in talking with you. I have a two-week window to climb and I am trying to put together a plan.

-Tony

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lets talk! should someone start an email circulating with everyones address on it? would it be easier to keep in touch via email or this site?

 

GY, thanks for fixing the link.

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GUYS,

 

PLEASE DROP ME A LINE TO: swr03pa@rdg.ac.uk

and I'll circulate a message to all of us.

 

Alasdair:

You are right man. The problem is that

I am visiting Seattle for a short time

and I only have free 14,15,16 & 20,21 of Jan

... but luck cannot always be against me ;o)

In this case, with or without company, I will

definitely have to rush.

 

Q. where do you you get these light wands?

Any stored at Muir?

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gotta bring your own wands, unless someone has left them on route. but of course if they are left on route you never know if the climbers are still up there and the wands will be removed by the time you come down!

 

I will drop you a line soon, cheers.

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I'm game for winter ascents of Rainier, Baker, Adams, Hood or others. Would like to get together to have a beer to discuss style, schedule before a weather window opens so that we can go when it does. PM me or reply if you're interested.

 

Chris

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Chris

 

I am working in Seattle and I think I am the only one thats local who has really expressed an interest in this climb. so far I think there are four of us who have been exchanging emails working out details and ideas. PM me your email address if you are interested in more info.

 

for one, Panos, is on a limited schedule so the weather window is something of a moot point for him. the rest of us are more flexible so looking for ideal timing is an option. hope for the best around 19-22 Jan! after that lets go when the going is good.

 

talk to you later, cheers, Brian :-)

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Mt Rainier conditions report for Dec 21, 2005

 

General Climbing Conditions:

 

Muir Snowfield: The trail is 100% snow covered and there is no established boot path due to a significant of snow and rain.

 

Gibraltar Chute: A team summited via this route on December 17th. A significant amount of ice-debris from the Nisqually Ice Cliff had to be crossed in order to reach the Chute; otherwise, the approach was straightforward. Excellent climbing conditions were found in the Chute itself - firm/icy snow with good crampon-ing allowed for quick progress. Ice coverage in the hourglass near 11,800 feet was thin. The ascent was direct from top of the Gibraltar Rock to the summit was direct. The team descended Gibraltar Ledges and found them to be mostly melted out.

 

On Dec 11th, teams of climbers attempted both the Gibraltar Ledges and Ingraham Direct. Neither summited; both were turned back due to late morning starts, icy conditions, and broken mountaineering terrain that slowed the ascent. There is a fair amount of snow below 7,000 feet however the upper mountain looks surprisingly thin. As an example, many of the rocks along the Cowlitz Cleaver, Cadaver and Cathedral Gaps are still exposed. Both teams reported a fall into thinly veiled crevasses and each party felt they could have made the summit if they had left earlier and allowed more time for circuitous route finding.

 

At this time, we have no reports for the Disappointment Cleaver routes.

 

General Backcountry and Mountaineering Information:

 

Despite a reasonable accumulation of snow at lower elevations, many areas above 8,000 feet are still showing exposed rock and/or ice. Be aware of "hidden" crevasses while on glaciers.

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Hi folks (and Chris),

 

Please check the forecast and write to me directly

(swr03pa@rdg.ac.uk) on Thursday 12/1. If it is good

we can meet either at the airport or at Paradise

early on Saturday morning ... and go up

 

Happy New Year

Panos.

Edited by Panos

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snow? rain, snow, whatever! LOL if the pattern holds that the Rangers spoke of then all this precipitation will be falling down low not change the upper mountain much. with these high freezing levels it might be raining on the Muir snowfield. also from what they said about the thin snow cover up high if they are getting snow up there then all good, the top needs it, especially the Ledges. we have at least a week before the climb so who knows what conditions we will have then.

 

Panos, is the date for you to climb moving up to the 14th and only the 14th or do you have the time to try then and if it doesnt work-out then give it another try the 19th-22nd?

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