RuMR Posted November 1, 2005 Author Share Posted November 1, 2005 hey...did you get my pm???? what PM? was it about sucking? NO! NOT YOU!!!!!... anyway, now that you mention it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 ahhh hush up! get some shoes... Strength vs power? I guess strength would be something sustainable as opposed to "burst" style push? bingo. Old school teaching: you can lift with one of three options as a goal: Strength, Power, or Endurance. Alternating programs to focus on one at a time is supposed to be affective to build a good foundation in each; then, incorporate them by shifting among them more rapidly. blah blah blah I could go on forever and bore the shit outta ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 1, 2005 Author Share Posted November 1, 2005 you won't bore me...send me some info!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 I should mention that the lifting I did was all weird and adapted to what seemed to me way more applicable to climbing. Lotso core strength, wide grip pulls, weighted type writers, levers, that kinda thing. (I do think 4-7 reps tends a bit towards stamina, not just pure power, especially if you're not recovering fully between sets.) Anyway, I could blab all day about training shit. Soemtimes I think I like training better than climbing. go figure. But yeah, when I've campused crimps for a few weeks, things really went off. Twice a week, but it's pretty hard on the fingers. If you start getting lingering pain, stop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 I don't understand your classification of the low rep work as strength, not power. Two rep lifting near max is pretty kapow to me...very similar to bouldering and power sequences in climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 Finding out that 5.13- was actually possible, learning the ways in which it was harder than climbing easier routes, and training accordingly. And lately, the benefits of conditioning via Kung Fu class have made a subtle but noticeable improvement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 I don't understand your classification of the low rep work as strength, not power. Two rep lifting near max is pretty kapow to me...very similar to bouldering and power sequences in climbing. My bad--I wasn't very clear. It's not the low rep part of that workout that catagorizes it as strength, its the actual lifts and the pyramid aspects that make it a more strength-based workout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 Finding out that 5.13- was actually possible, learning the ways in which it was harder than climbing easier routes, and training accordingly. And lately, the benefits of conditioning via Kung Fu class have made a subtle but noticeable improvement. M arts good for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 Those ass-clowns at Assensionist don't know shit. Pack of liars, poseurs, and ne'er-do-wells, they. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 indeed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 My bad--I wasn't very clear. It's not the low rep part of that workout that catagorizes it as strength, its the actual lifts and the pyramid aspects that make it a more strength-based workout. gotcha. yeah I'd agree to a certain extent, although I'd caveat with the following: the build-up to 90% of max with higher (5 and 3) reps and lower intensity works more like a warm-up for me, saving pop for the high weights. I think also the idea with the lower weight reps is that you build a base upon which to develop more pop. But I could see having days where one omits the build-up and goes straight to high after warm up. maybe a few week cycle or somesuch. And then apply this to climbing specific work-outs too, such as campusing, system board, bouldering, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 1, 2005 Author Share Posted November 1, 2005 Those ass-clowns at Assensionist don't know shit. Pack of liars, poseurs, and ne'er-do-wells, they. yeah right, vitaly! stupid dork Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 1, 2005 Author Share Posted November 1, 2005 actually, i do agree with you about the martial arts and their benefits... that's why i'm sticking with wrestling as it bends you in all sorts of "not normal" directions and forces "out of plane" types of strengths... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 My bad--I wasn't very clear. It's not the low rep part of that workout that catagorizes it as strength, its the actual lifts and the pyramid aspects that make it a more strength-based workout. gotcha. yeah I'd agree to a certain extent, although I'd caveat with the following: the build-up to 90% of max with higher (5 and 3) reps and lower intensity works more like a warm-up for me, saving pop for the high weights. I think also the idea with the lower weight reps is that you build a base upon which to develop more pop. But I could see having days where one omits the build-up and goes straight to high after warm up. maybe a few week cycle or somesuch. And then apply this to climbing specific work-outs too, such as campusing, system board, bouldering, etc. Right on--good way to get at it. But remember that when building endurance, we are not necessarily improving our muscle power. Developing fast twitch muscle response will have little impact on slow twitch muscle cells. But you are right to say that alternating your workouts gives a better overall result. And building tendon strength occurs during almost any lifting workout--and that translates to more strength in everything else you do. Lifting rocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 1, 2005 Author Share Posted November 1, 2005 FWIW...i'm not really worried about endurance...I fall off of shiznet cuz i just can't hold on to the littlebitchpieceofshit hold...doesn't matter if i've gotten 100 feet of climbing to said littlebitchpieceofshit hold or 2 feet of climbing...goddddammmittt that pisses me off! I wanna squeeze that fokker until rock juice is squirting out of it... anyways...Sexychocobunny and arch, pm me your info!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 FWIW...i'm not really worried about endurance...I fall off of shiznet cuz i just can't hold on to the littlebitchpieceofshit hold...doesn't matter if i've gotten 100 feet of climbing to said littlebitchpieceofshit hold or 2 feet of climbing...goddddammmittt that pisses me off! I wanna squeeze that fokker until rock juice is squirting out of it... anyways...Sexychocobunny and arch, pm me your info!!!! Here is some info: relax and enjoy the climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 1, 2005 Author Share Posted November 1, 2005 that's no fun... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 climbing until failure no matter how big the fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 1, 2005 Author Share Posted November 1, 2005 that's not much fun either...plus, its kinda dangerous...I'm curious, have you gone into that zone??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 climbing until failure no matter how big the fall. Ah, we have a slogan winner. Better inform Olyclimber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 Yeah, 2 days ago on some mid 12 something I was trying to onsite. Whipped on the crux traverse about 10 feet right of the bolt and took a tweenty five foot tumbler. At least I had a good belayer. It at least made sport climbing a little exciting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 1, 2005 Author Share Posted November 1, 2005 that's not exactly a huge fall...large, but not huge... yeah, i agree going for it on a sport climb is one thing...and i've gone further than I thought I could go on a few things before... but this is not really what i'm asking about...What i'm asking about is what really "bumped" your level to the next one...arguably "going for it with all you've got" means exactly that...you are going with what you've got...i wanna get some "more", if you know what i mean... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 Finding a partner who wasn't singing "Peter don't be a hero don't be a fool with your life....." everytime I was leading. Actually it was the advice "Don't fall because you're scared of falling" my level is pretty low tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 1, 2005 Author Share Posted November 1, 2005 "level is pretty low"... whatever, peter... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeleRoss Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 climbing is nothing but a warm up for ski season.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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